Another great day of work on the Mariner with a special visit from Mariner Class Association member John Davies, #3337. John drove up from Traverse City with his wife to take a look at my boat and offer his extensive knowledge of the Mariner and personal recommendations on the condition of the boat and the repairs I am undertaking. I am very grateful for his generosity.
John told me the repairs thus far look good and made a great list of the next steps. His first recommendation was that I get the trailer rollers in proper contact with the hull so that I can prevent the same issues coming back. Next, scraping or grinding out the interior of the hull/deck joint and adding 3M 5200 to prevent water getting in at that point.
He confirmed my observation that there does not appear to be any lead ballast in the typical area along the CB trunk in my boat. Our thought is that this was a Spindrift-only variation. Perhaps because of this the CB trunk does look like it needs reinforcing as I noticed with the cracks around the opening, John recommended reinforcing this area all around the trunk with several layers of glass.
The biggest structural repair that needs to be attended to eventually is that the rear crossmember of the hull liner is delaminating from the hull. In fact most of the hull liner around the cabin sole, quarter berths and at the support member are delaminating from the outer hull. Perhaps this was a result of the Spindrift manufacturing process? I will post pictures when I have a chance to take some more in the cabin and under the cockpit. John recommended fixing the tabing and adding new glass over the the joints when I have the time.
After John left, I sanded down yesterday's glassing and put on the first coat of bottom paint. The bottom paint I am using is West Marine's Bottom Shield which should work well for the limited time my boat spends in the water. My short term plan is to add a few more coats of bottom paint, finish removing the old beat up stickers from the hull, re-bed the deck hardware, and thoroughly clean the topsides, and then go sailing! Other projects that I hope to get to this summer are sealing the hull/deck joint, reinforcing the CB trunk, and fixing the joint between the hull liner and outer hull.
Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sailing. Show all posts
Fiberglassing the Mariner
I spent the day grinding out a bit more in the target areas and then laying glass. The cracked area on the starboard side where a bunk had pressed in turned out to be much larger than I realized. The area had multiple weak points, damaged areas, and was completely waterlogged. I ground out all the bad glass tapering the edges back and dried it out as best as I could before glassing over the hole. I ended up with 7 layers of thick glass matting which I estimated to be about the thickness of the original hull.
I was not able to add glass on the inside at this time as I have not cut into the berths yet. It also looked like the cracked area was directly beneath the corner of one of the berths because I was able to see the vertical end of a piece of plywood right behind it. The plywood, though waterlogged, appeared to be in good condition. My hope is that this will eventually dry out? I have drilled through the hull and will be adding a bronze garboard drain so even if I do get more water in the winter, at least it will not collect. Perhaps I will be able to add more glass from the inside when I start exploring the insides of the quarter berths.
As soon as I took a grinder to the damaged area at the front of the CB trunk (where I thought it had been hit) the fiberglass turned out to be extremely weak and I noticed signs of a previous repair with a hard white substance. I ground out everything and added glass matting and then biaxial on top. I did not get to building it up to the original shape and perhaps will come back to that. I then glass along the very corner of the CB trunk all the way round. I am not sure this really added all that much strength as I only added one layer of fabric, but I figure it's better than nothing. My hope is that with epoxy paint, the boat will at the least be considerably more watertight than before.
My next task will be removing the deck fittings and rebedding everything in an attempt to keep out rainwater. I'd love to paint the deck as well, but am not sure about what to do with the hairline cracking. Maybe I will leave that for another time.
Last but not least, I believe that the majority of the water that got into the boat over the winter got in at the low points of the hull/deck joint as the boat was fairly well covered over the winter and still took on a couple of inches of water. My thinking is that those areas would be where any ingress of water would collect. I wonder if there is a recommended way of sealing these that doesn't involve removing the riveted section. I am considering caulking the inside with something like 3M 5200.
I am really looking forward to sanding, painting, and getting this thing back in the water.
I was not able to add glass on the inside at this time as I have not cut into the berths yet. It also looked like the cracked area was directly beneath the corner of one of the berths because I was able to see the vertical end of a piece of plywood right behind it. The plywood, though waterlogged, appeared to be in good condition. My hope is that this will eventually dry out? I have drilled through the hull and will be adding a bronze garboard drain so even if I do get more water in the winter, at least it will not collect. Perhaps I will be able to add more glass from the inside when I start exploring the insides of the quarter berths.
As soon as I took a grinder to the damaged area at the front of the CB trunk (where I thought it had been hit) the fiberglass turned out to be extremely weak and I noticed signs of a previous repair with a hard white substance. I ground out everything and added glass matting and then biaxial on top. I did not get to building it up to the original shape and perhaps will come back to that. I then glass along the very corner of the CB trunk all the way round. I am not sure this really added all that much strength as I only added one layer of fabric, but I figure it's better than nothing. My hope is that with epoxy paint, the boat will at the least be considerably more watertight than before.
My next task will be removing the deck fittings and rebedding everything in an attempt to keep out rainwater. I'd love to paint the deck as well, but am not sure about what to do with the hairline cracking. Maybe I will leave that for another time.
Last but not least, I believe that the majority of the water that got into the boat over the winter got in at the low points of the hull/deck joint as the boat was fairly well covered over the winter and still took on a couple of inches of water. My thinking is that those areas would be where any ingress of water would collect. I wonder if there is a recommended way of sealing these that doesn't involve removing the riveted section. I am considering caulking the inside with something like 3M 5200.
I am really looking forward to sanding, painting, and getting this thing back in the water.
Centerboard Trunk Cracks
I spent 4 hours sanding to the bottom yesterday and got the majority of the existing paint off and established an even roughed up surface. I focused a bit more on the damaged areas and tried to get them down to bare glass.
One thing I noticed during my prolonged time on my back under the boat was that there were quite a few hairline stress cracks all the way around the CB trunk right at the corner of the opening through the hull. I do remember the CB trunk moving side to side a good bit when I had her out sailing last year. At the time I thought it could be normal, but now I am wondering if this could be the cause of the cracks.
I also noticed a good bit of cracking and gelcoat chipping around the front of the CB trunk slot. This looks like it was caused by the CB being dropped and hitting the front of the trunk. My hope is to grind these areas down a bit more and lay fresh glass over them, sand and fair, and then paint with an epoxy barrier coat.
One thing I noticed during my prolonged time on my back under the boat was that there were quite a few hairline stress cracks all the way around the CB trunk right at the corner of the opening through the hull. I do remember the CB trunk moving side to side a good bit when I had her out sailing last year. At the time I thought it could be normal, but now I am wondering if this could be the cause of the cracks.
I also noticed a good bit of cracking and gelcoat chipping around the front of the CB trunk slot. This looks like it was caused by the CB being dropped and hitting the front of the trunk. My hope is to grind these areas down a bit more and lay fresh glass over them, sand and fair, and then paint with an epoxy barrier coat.
Mariner 19 "Grebe" 2018 Season
Hull damage
First off, I’m really more interested in having fun with the boat and actually sailing it than making this thing look perfect. The hull deformations don’t really bother me as much as the leak… I’d like to be able to leave it on our mooring for a week or two without worrying that it’s going to take on enough water to sink. (I also have a couple of bilge pumps and solar panels, so I can rig those up as well, but I would prefer to figure out the leaks on their own. When I first put the boat in the water it would take on about 2-4 inches of water per hour. That was when I found the crack in the hull where one of the bunks had actually pressed in enough to create a crack in the hull. I did a quick fix on that last summer and got the boat to the point where it would only take on a couple of inches of water over night. The location of the two deformations and the crack is right under the quarter berths (where I can't see it). My tentative plan is to sand the hull, re-epoxy/fiberglass the cracked area, and then paint the hull. A more involved idea I had was to cut large access holes in the quarter berth, build some reinforcing structure in there to repair the hull shape, repair the leak from the inside with fiberglass, fill with fresh floatation foam, and re-fiberglass the quarter berths. Sounds like a lot of work that might be a later project!
Hull and deck paint
As far as hull paint, I have been reading everything I can on the Mariner forums and on Nate B's Orion website. I do think that I am going to repaint the hull and deck this summer. It sounds there are a lot of options for paints. I am thinking I will try the roll and tip method of application. For the deck, I have a lot of the usual spider cracks. I am not sure if a thorough sanding and painting will take care of that for a couple of years, or should I consider a more involved approach with grinding out the cracks and filling them.
Weekend Sailing/Camping in Harbor Springs
Joe and I have been planning a shakedown sail on his late 70's Chrysler C22. It's only 22' long, but packs a lot of cabin room for such a small boat. At 3000lbs, it's big for a trailer sailor but is small enough to launch from a truck. We spent a day practicing stepping and unstepping the mast in the driveway and have many ideas for improving the process to the point where it can be a single-handed operation. Originally, we considered an expedition from South Haven to Saugetuck, but as it was Labor Day with limited slips available and we were new to the boat, we decided to try something a bit more conservative. For this trip we decided to stick to an area I was familiar with and use our family mooring in Harbor Springs as a base of operations as we learned about the boat.
Headed north with the Chrysler C22 in tow
Posed in front of the Wequetonsing Post Office while we picked up the dingy.
It took a while to rig and provision the boat, but we motored down to the mooring and prepared dinner under an improvised boom tent.
Pancakes and sausage for breakfast after our first night on the boat.
And we're off. A fresh breeze proved a bit too be a bit too much action fir the younger members of the crew, but we had plenty of time to practice tacking, jibing, and various points of sail up and down the Weque shore in the lea of point.

Enjoying the sights of the Harbor Saturday afternoon
Our improvised anchor light on the forestry.
A lot was learned about the boat, its rigging, and sailing; what we do and don't need to pack for longer excursions; skills we need to practice; and additional skills and knowledge we need. Next summer, the plan is to sail from Harbor Springs down along the coast and across Grand Traverse Bay to Northport. This would be a great trip in the C22 or perhaps the Mariner if I can get it s bit more seaworthy this winter...
Headed north with the Chrysler C22 in tow
Posed in front of the Wequetonsing Post Office while we picked up the dingy.
It took a while to rig and provision the boat, but we motored down to the mooring and prepared dinner under an improvised boom tent.
Pancakes and sausage for breakfast after our first night on the boat.
And we're off. A fresh breeze proved a bit too be a bit too much action fir the younger members of the crew, but we had plenty of time to practice tacking, jibing, and various points of sail up and down the Weque shore in the lea of point.
Enjoying the sights of the Harbor Saturday afternoon
Our improvised anchor light on the forestry.
A lot was learned about the boat, its rigging, and sailing; what we do and don't need to pack for longer excursions; skills we need to practice; and additional skills and knowledge we need. Next summer, the plan is to sail from Harbor Springs down along the coast and across Grand Traverse Bay to Northport. This would be a great trip in the C22 or perhaps the Mariner if I can get it s bit more seaworthy this winter...
Mast Raising on a Chrysler C22
A friend brought his sailboat by for a preparatory daysail last Sunday. We are planing a 3-day voyage from Grand Haven to Saugetuck in two weeks and I wanted some experience with the boat prior to taking it out on Lake Michigan. After the relative ease of mast raising on my very light little Mariner 19 "Grebe", I was not prepared for the operation it would take to step the heavy mast on a Chrysler C22. The C22 is a trailer sailor, but about as big as they come. Heavy, well ballasted, and rigged for adventures further from shore. We spent 3 hours test stepping and lowerering the mast in my driveway and decided against doing it all over at the boat launch without a bit more research... We managed to jury rig a gin pole and mast bridle out of a 2X4 and some spare line, but it was not a perfect system, and was quite nerve racking to raise and lower. Turns out we were very close to figuring it out, but not quite. Apparently the C22 mast can be stepped single-handed with the right experience and equipment. I will say, once everything was rigged, it was a very straightforward operation, perhaps easier even than the Mariner. You're just dealing with four times the weight. With a bit of research and sketching, I look forward to trying this again and actually going sailing in this great boat.





You Need a Boat That Can Take It Even If You Can't
"I remember we were offshore, a good 200 miles from the closest harbor and we spotted a small sailboat moving along at a nice clip," he said. "We sailed closer to check her out and what do you know? It was a Folkboat. Sailed by an elderly couple that was having tea and cookies on the high seas."
-From "Folkboat Mecca Denmark" by Dieter Loibner quoting Lars Erik Jensen
Full Fathom Five Thy Folkboat Lies...
She's up and floating again with an additional pump, battery and solar panel... no damage but a broken masthead that was rotten anyway. Irish Boat Shop fixed it up with a beautiful scarf joint. Pretty sure the pump was what gave out or the float trip for the pump. I'm headed up to sail her tomorrow!
Octogenarian Leads Raft Expedition Across Atlantic
All the materials [for the raft] have been either donated or purchased by Mr Smith, who is spending compensation he received after he was run over by a van two years ago – an accident that has left the adventurer, writer and grandfather with metal pins in his leg. More here.
The Nordic Folkboat
Tord Sunden's Nordic Folkboat is a sailing legend. She was one of the few items of exceptional merit to emerge from the horror years of 1939-1945 when much of the world was experiencing the convulsions of war. Sunden's home country was Sweden, which had declared neutrality in World War II. In the early 1940s the Swedes organized an international competition for a new common Scandinavian class of sailboats. The organizers were looking for a cheap, fast, seawo rthy, one-design racing boat that could also be used for family cruising during weekends and holidays.
Nearly 60 designs were entered for the competition, but none was accepted outright, and Tord Sunden, then an amateur yacht designer, was chosen by the organizing committee to pull together the most promising aspects of the top four designs submitted.
The result was the nautical equivalent of the German Volkswagen, the people's car. She was named the people's boat, the Folkboat. But little did the organizers of the competition imagine how successful she would be Eighty orders poured in from all over Sweden before the final plans were completed.
Today, 60 or so years after the first Nordic Folkboat was launched, there are thousands of Folkboats afloat: wooden ones and fiberglass ones. The majority are in Europe, with Sweden leading the pack, followed by Denmark, Germany, Finland, and the Unite d Kingdom. There are about 120 in San Francisco, where the San Francisco Bay Folkboat Association administers the fleet, and where the Folkboat's wonderful heavy-weather performance is much admired.
Besides the Nordic Folkboats, all of which comply with the class's one design rules, there are thousands of near-Folkboats, close look-alikes such as the Contessa 26 (featured in the September 1999 issue), most of which attempt to increase her interior living space with more beam, a longer waterline, and a larger coachroof, while retaining her fabled seakeeping qualities and her classical good looks.
In 1966 Tord Sunden introduced a variant of the classic Nordic Folkboat that lacked the traditional lapstrake planking. It was carvel-planked and featured a shallower, self-bailing cockpit. She also was more luxurious below. She was known as the Intern ational Folkboat, but the Scandinavians regarded that description as misleading, and referred to her only as the "IF Boat." The term International Folkboat survived in the United States, however, and the International Folkboat Association of San Francisco Bay held sway over their racing and cruising activities there.
Basic design
The original design concept had a long, overhanging stern, like a 30-SquareMeter's. But that was later chopped off, probably because a long overhang adds considerably to building costs. The result was a much more seaworthy transom stern. The transom, h owever, was given a handsome rake so it would better match the moderate overhang of the bow, and thus the after end of the full keel also was clipped away to line up with it. That, together with the generous cutaway up forward, greatly reduced the wetted area of the keel without affecting its efficiency. Early critics thought the raked rudder would make steering difficult under some circumstances, but experience proved them wrong.
The first boats were, of course, built of wood. Their bulls were clinker-built, or of lapstrake construction, with each strake overlapping the upper edge of its neighbor below. This makes the boat strong and light. It also adds greatly to her looks by repeating and emphasizing the sweet lines of her sheer.
The first fiberglass Nordic Folkboats were legalized in 1977 and were exact reproductions of the wooden boat, including the overlapping strakes. They raced on equal terms with wooden boats and were forced by the strict one-design rules to use wooden ma sts.
The International Folkboats were regarded as a separate class, although their overall measurements and design were basically the same. They, too, were produced in fiberglass, but with smooth topsides and lighter aluminum masts.
Between 1967 and 1984, when production ceased, Marieholms Bruk, of Sweden, launched more than 3,400 International Folkboats, hitting an annual record high of 552 boats in 1975. After that, there was a steep decline in demand, although almost 1,000 were sold in the next nine years.
Production of fiberglass Nordic boats also continued apace, and a Danish boatbuilder, Folkebådcentralen A/S, of Kerteminde, has now built more than 900 Nordic Folkboats that are solid GRP replicas of the original wooden-hulled design, lapped strakes and all.
The Folkboat has a rounded underbody with fairly slack bilges, a combination that makes for slight initial tenderness but more than compensates for it with comfort at sea. After that initial tilt, she stiffens up considerably, so much so that she is ab le to race in winds strong enough to keep other classes in port. The topsides and the cabintop are low, offering little resistance to the wind and making no concessions to creature comfort below. The foredeck is uncluttered—there are only a hatch and a mooring cleat to stub your toes on—and convenient to work on.
The cockpit is a compromise between the needs of racers and cruisers—big enough for a racing crew, barely small enough for serious deepsea cruising. Some Folkboats have a deep cockpit that is more sheltered and more comfortable, but it drains into the bilge. Serious deepsea sailors will want the other version, a self-bailing cockpit that will not endanger the ship if it fills with water. The rudder hangs outboard of the transom, a simple, strong and easily accessible arrangement. The tiller sweeps across the after deck, but doesn't interfere much with the crew in the cockpit.
The engine is a matter of choice and depends on whether your boat is Nordic or International. Some boats have a well in the cockpit for an outboard motor of between 5 hp and 8 hp. Others mount an outboard on the transom. Still others prefer an inboard auxiliary, usually a single cylinder diesel. If you're planning an ocean crossing in a Folkboat, it would make a lot of sense to choose an outboard, and to keep it on the transom. If you find it interferes with your self-steering gear, you may have to hou se it in a well, in which case you can either leave it down, causing a little drag in the water, or remove it and store it below while you're on passage. The inboard engine makes more sense for weekenders or coastal cruisers who won't miss the valuable st owage space as much as the bluewater cruisers will.
Accommodations
It doesn't take long to describe the Folkboat's accommodations, although they, too, can vary according to whether she's Nordic or IF, and from builder to builder. On the IF boats, there's usually teak everywhere, and vinyl headliners. The hull is lined with padded vinyl, too, in place of the wooden ceiling. The V-berth has two berths more than 6 feet long, and the main cabin has two settee berths which are even longer.
Some boats have an enclosed head compartment, and others are supplied with a portabl e head. There's a rudimentary galley, and there may even be a small chart table. There's usually a hanging locker somewhere, and a few lockers and shelves scattered around the place, though not nearly enough for a long voyage. Nowhere is there sufficient room to swing a cat, and nowhere is the headroom more than 4 feet 8 inches.
The interior is bright and airy, though, especially with the companionway sliding hatch open, and seems very welcoming and protected in contrast to the exposed conditions of the cockpit.
The rig
The Nordic Folkboat is a Bermudian sloop with a wooden mast and a conspicuous fractional rig the forestay joins the mast about two-thirds of the way up from the deck. This makes for a small working jib and a large mainsail. It is, perhaps, not as effic ient as a rig with a larger jib, seeing that the jib does most of the work when going to windward, but it certainly makes for happier cockpit crews when the load on the jib sheets is small.
Folkboats not subject to the one-design racing rules usually have modern masthead rigs and aluminum spars. Many of the boats in the United States are rigged that way. If you're more, interested in crossing oceans than in racing around the buoys, the al uminum masthead rig might be preferable because it makes provision for double lower shrouds in place of the single after lower shroud that is standard on wooden masts.
The mast is stepped on deck but appears to be well supported by a massive deck beam and seems not to compress the cabintop as so many others do. Presumably, after more than 50 years of racing and ocean cruising, the builders of Folkboats have got it ri ght.
Right from the beginning, Nordic Folkboat owners agreed to race without spinnakers, to make thing easier for family sailors and shorthanded crews. But those gung-ho Finns couldn't stand it. Even though they couldn't compete internationally with spinnak ers, they raced with them among themselves.
"We simply think that sailing with a spinnaker is more fun, and that it makes sailing more colorful," explained a member of the Finnish Folkboat Association.
Performance
Any class that is still going strong after more than 50 years obviously has something good going for it. The Folkboat has several excellent features, not the least of which is her performance. For a full-keel boat, she is surprisingly fast and close-wi nded. Her PHRF rating is 228 for boats with outboard engines and 234 for boats with inboards.
On top of that, she's easy to handle. A picture of IF Boat 377 (Magnificent Obsession) published in Latitude 38 magazine in June, 1998, shows her rail down just outside San Francisco's G olden Gate in 25 knots and more. She has one reef in the mainsail and full working jib—and her tiller is being held dead fore-and-aft. No weather helm there.
The Folkboat is indeed revered for her ability to carry sail in strong winds, and no doubt her extra-heavy keel is largely responsible for this. The ballast ratio is an extraordinary 54 percent, which means the iron keel alone weighs more than all the rest of the boat. Little wonder that Folkboats were, and still are, so popular in the blustery San Francisco Bay area.
Her performance as a seaboat is legendary, of course. It wasn't just a coincidence that two of the six boats in the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race, in 1960, were Folkboats. Valentine Howells raced in the conventional Folkboat Eira, while Colonel H. G. ("Blondie") Hasler sailed a much-modified Folkboat, the famous Jester, which had a standard hull but a flush deck with a central control point and a Chinese lug rig.
The long keel gives the Folkboat good directional stability, and this, together with her zesty performance and her easy motion, makes her a sensible choice for a singlehanded voyager or a young couple—and we say a young couple only because young p eople are more likely to be forgiving about the Folkboat's biggest disadvantage, her lack of interior space.
Known weaknesses
After nearly 60 years of production and real-life testing, there are no weaknesses left in the Folkboat that are not patently obvious, such as the cramped accommodation quarters. This is a very open, honest boat.
If you're contemplating buying one for a long voyage, you'll have to look for the wear and tear applicable to boats in general. Inspect the hull for the dreaded boat pox, if she's GRP, and be careful to locate any areas of rot if she's wooden. Dance on those fiberglass decks and tap away with your screwdriver handle.
As always, even if you think you know it all, it's a wise move to get a second opinion. Let a qualified surveyor check her out. It's your life that's at stake.
Owner's opinions
This is another boat people fall in love with so passionately that it's difficult to get an owner to say a word against a Folkboat. Her classic beauty alone is enough to still all criticism.
Yet the physical exploits of her devotees give us valuable insights into her abilities when the sole arbiter is the sea itself. Blondie Hasler's wooden Jester is both a good and a bad example of this. Good, because she crossed the Atlantic 14 times. Ba d, because she was eventually lost at sea without trace. But she was very old and she had suffered more punishment than a dozen normal boats.
From the waterline down, Jester was a normal Folkboat, but the rest of her had been greatly modified by her owner, who was much given to invention and experimentation. She was a very early model, and in fact sailed from 1952 to 1959 with Hasler's "lapw ing" rig before he threw that out and installed a junk rig for the 1960 Observer Singlehanded Transatlantic Race.
Hasler came in second in that race, a remarkable achievement. He was only eight days behind Francis Chichester's Gipsy Moth III a much bigger and faster 39-foot sloop that crossed the finish line 40 days after the start. Jester was driven hard, and was reduced in one gale to what Hasler described as "four reefs down."
The other Folkboat in that race, Eira, came in fourth out of six in 63 days. Eira was knocked on her beam ends, and Valentine Howells put into Bermuda to replace a chronometer he had lost and to repair some damage.
In 1963, Adrian Hayter circumnavigated the world alone, sailing halfway—from England to New Zealand—in Sheila II, a 32-footer. But he completed the New Zealand-to-England leg in a Folkboat called Valkyr. Mike Bale also sailed from England to New Zealand in a Folkboat called Jellicle, and had a crew for part of the way. In 1975, a 55-year-old Australian grandmother named Ann Gash sailed around the world singlehanded in a Folkboat called Ilimo. She chose the east-to-west route via the Panama Ca nal, but had the boat shipped for part of the way, from Ghana to England.
More recently, a British Folkboat called Storm Petrel was completing an unusual circumnavigation in 1998 with solo sailor Tony Curphey aboard. It was unusual because Tony's wife, Suzanne, was also making a singlehanded circumnavigation aboard her own b oat, a 30-foot Seadog ketch called Glory. They had originally set out separately, not knowing each other, but they met in New Zealand and got married in the Solomon Islands.
Tony's Folkboat often beat Suzanne's Seadog into port on subsequent legs of their tandem voyage and regularly clocked up 130 miles a day in the trade winds. Their plan, once they had completed their solo circumnavigations, was to sell their boats, buy a bigger one, and carry on cruising—but together this time.
There are undoubtedly many other Folkboats that have sailed around the world and around Cape Horn, singlehanded and crewed, whose names have not been recorded in the annals of small boat sailing. There was a time, 50 years ago, when such voyages were r are, and records were kept of individual exploits. Now that they are more commonplace, nobody seems to be keeping the tally, which is a great pity. Perhaps the Internet will one day find a place for the Roll of Honor of small boat circumnavigations; if it does, the Folkboat will surely feature prominently.
Conclusion
According to Marek Janiec, a member of the Swedish International Folkboat (IF) Association's technical committee, there are about 2,000 IFs in Sweden, and the market price there for a boat in excellent con dition is about 60,000 Swedish kroner, or $7,400 U.S. There are about 4,000 IF Boats scattered throughout the globe, which makes it the biggest deep-keel racing class in the world.
"In Denmark, the price is 20 percent to 30 percent higher, and down in Europe, still 20 percent more."
So—would you score a financial coup by going to Sweden, buying a cheap Folkboat, and sailing her home? Probably not, although it's a very attractive plan, in any case. Secondhand International Folkboats sell on the West Coast of the United States for between $10,000 and $14,000, so the savings are not substantial in actual dollar terms if you factor in travel and accommodation charges. A brand-new fiberglass Nordic Folkboat costs about $40,000 in Denmark.
Wherever you buy one, a Folkboat represents good value for a boat capable of carrying one or two people around the world, albeit in cramped surroundings. Besides that, if you have any finer feelings at all, you'll have to agree that she's one of the mo st beautiful boats ever made to go to sea. Just looking at her riding to anchor in her own reflection in a tropical lagoon will make your heart leap with delight.
Text from The Nordic Folkboat: Little Beauty with a Big Heart by John Vigor.
Also, a here is a link to Sea Room a film featuring the Folkboat about the 1976 St. Francis Yacht Club's Woodie Regatta in the San Francisco bay.
Nearly 60 designs were entered for the competition, but none was accepted outright, and Tord Sunden, then an amateur yacht designer, was chosen by the organizing committee to pull together the most promising aspects of the top four designs submitted.
The result was the nautical equivalent of the German Volkswagen, the people's car. She was named the people's boat, the Folkboat. But little did the organizers of the competition imagine how successful she would be Eighty orders poured in from all over Sweden before the final plans were completed.
Today, 60 or so years after the first Nordic Folkboat was launched, there are thousands of Folkboats afloat: wooden ones and fiberglass ones. The majority are in Europe, with Sweden leading the pack, followed by Denmark, Germany, Finland, and the Unite d Kingdom. There are about 120 in San Francisco, where the San Francisco Bay Folkboat Association administers the fleet, and where the Folkboat's wonderful heavy-weather performance is much admired.
Besides the Nordic Folkboats, all of which comply with the class's one design rules, there are thousands of near-Folkboats, close look-alikes such as the Contessa 26 (featured in the September 1999 issue), most of which attempt to increase her interior living space with more beam, a longer waterline, and a larger coachroof, while retaining her fabled seakeeping qualities and her classical good looks.
In 1966 Tord Sunden introduced a variant of the classic Nordic Folkboat that lacked the traditional lapstrake planking. It was carvel-planked and featured a shallower, self-bailing cockpit. She also was more luxurious below. She was known as the Intern ational Folkboat, but the Scandinavians regarded that description as misleading, and referred to her only as the "IF Boat." The term International Folkboat survived in the United States, however, and the International Folkboat Association of San Francisco Bay held sway over their racing and cruising activities there.
Basic design
The original design concept had a long, overhanging stern, like a 30-SquareMeter's. But that was later chopped off, probably because a long overhang adds considerably to building costs. The result was a much more seaworthy transom stern. The transom, h owever, was given a handsome rake so it would better match the moderate overhang of the bow, and thus the after end of the full keel also was clipped away to line up with it. That, together with the generous cutaway up forward, greatly reduced the wetted area of the keel without affecting its efficiency. Early critics thought the raked rudder would make steering difficult under some circumstances, but experience proved them wrong.
The first boats were, of course, built of wood. Their bulls were clinker-built, or of lapstrake construction, with each strake overlapping the upper edge of its neighbor below. This makes the boat strong and light. It also adds greatly to her looks by repeating and emphasizing the sweet lines of her sheer.
The first fiberglass Nordic Folkboats were legalized in 1977 and were exact reproductions of the wooden boat, including the overlapping strakes. They raced on equal terms with wooden boats and were forced by the strict one-design rules to use wooden ma sts.
The International Folkboats were regarded as a separate class, although their overall measurements and design were basically the same. They, too, were produced in fiberglass, but with smooth topsides and lighter aluminum masts.
Between 1967 and 1984, when production ceased, Marieholms Bruk, of Sweden, launched more than 3,400 International Folkboats, hitting an annual record high of 552 boats in 1975. After that, there was a steep decline in demand, although almost 1,000 were sold in the next nine years.
Production of fiberglass Nordic boats also continued apace, and a Danish boatbuilder, Folkebådcentralen A/S, of Kerteminde, has now built more than 900 Nordic Folkboats that are solid GRP replicas of the original wooden-hulled design, lapped strakes and all.
The Folkboat has a rounded underbody with fairly slack bilges, a combination that makes for slight initial tenderness but more than compensates for it with comfort at sea. After that initial tilt, she stiffens up considerably, so much so that she is ab le to race in winds strong enough to keep other classes in port. The topsides and the cabintop are low, offering little resistance to the wind and making no concessions to creature comfort below. The foredeck is uncluttered—there are only a hatch and a mooring cleat to stub your toes on—and convenient to work on.
The cockpit is a compromise between the needs of racers and cruisers—big enough for a racing crew, barely small enough for serious deepsea cruising. Some Folkboats have a deep cockpit that is more sheltered and more comfortable, but it drains into the bilge. Serious deepsea sailors will want the other version, a self-bailing cockpit that will not endanger the ship if it fills with water. The rudder hangs outboard of the transom, a simple, strong and easily accessible arrangement. The tiller sweeps across the after deck, but doesn't interfere much with the crew in the cockpit.
The engine is a matter of choice and depends on whether your boat is Nordic or International. Some boats have a well in the cockpit for an outboard motor of between 5 hp and 8 hp. Others mount an outboard on the transom. Still others prefer an inboard auxiliary, usually a single cylinder diesel. If you're planning an ocean crossing in a Folkboat, it would make a lot of sense to choose an outboard, and to keep it on the transom. If you find it interferes with your self-steering gear, you may have to hou se it in a well, in which case you can either leave it down, causing a little drag in the water, or remove it and store it below while you're on passage. The inboard engine makes more sense for weekenders or coastal cruisers who won't miss the valuable st owage space as much as the bluewater cruisers will.
Accommodations
It doesn't take long to describe the Folkboat's accommodations, although they, too, can vary according to whether she's Nordic or IF, and from builder to builder. On the IF boats, there's usually teak everywhere, and vinyl headliners. The hull is lined with padded vinyl, too, in place of the wooden ceiling. The V-berth has two berths more than 6 feet long, and the main cabin has two settee berths which are even longer.
Some boats have an enclosed head compartment, and others are supplied with a portabl e head. There's a rudimentary galley, and there may even be a small chart table. There's usually a hanging locker somewhere, and a few lockers and shelves scattered around the place, though not nearly enough for a long voyage. Nowhere is there sufficient room to swing a cat, and nowhere is the headroom more than 4 feet 8 inches.
The interior is bright and airy, though, especially with the companionway sliding hatch open, and seems very welcoming and protected in contrast to the exposed conditions of the cockpit.
The rig
The Nordic Folkboat is a Bermudian sloop with a wooden mast and a conspicuous fractional rig the forestay joins the mast about two-thirds of the way up from the deck. This makes for a small working jib and a large mainsail. It is, perhaps, not as effic ient as a rig with a larger jib, seeing that the jib does most of the work when going to windward, but it certainly makes for happier cockpit crews when the load on the jib sheets is small.
Folkboats not subject to the one-design racing rules usually have modern masthead rigs and aluminum spars. Many of the boats in the United States are rigged that way. If you're more, interested in crossing oceans than in racing around the buoys, the al uminum masthead rig might be preferable because it makes provision for double lower shrouds in place of the single after lower shroud that is standard on wooden masts.
The mast is stepped on deck but appears to be well supported by a massive deck beam and seems not to compress the cabintop as so many others do. Presumably, after more than 50 years of racing and ocean cruising, the builders of Folkboats have got it ri ght.
Right from the beginning, Nordic Folkboat owners agreed to race without spinnakers, to make thing easier for family sailors and shorthanded crews. But those gung-ho Finns couldn't stand it. Even though they couldn't compete internationally with spinnak ers, they raced with them among themselves.
"We simply think that sailing with a spinnaker is more fun, and that it makes sailing more colorful," explained a member of the Finnish Folkboat Association.
Performance
Any class that is still going strong after more than 50 years obviously has something good going for it. The Folkboat has several excellent features, not the least of which is her performance. For a full-keel boat, she is surprisingly fast and close-wi nded. Her PHRF rating is 228 for boats with outboard engines and 234 for boats with inboards.
On top of that, she's easy to handle. A picture of IF Boat 377 (Magnificent Obsession) published in Latitude 38 magazine in June, 1998, shows her rail down just outside San Francisco's G olden Gate in 25 knots and more. She has one reef in the mainsail and full working jib—and her tiller is being held dead fore-and-aft. No weather helm there.
The Folkboat is indeed revered for her ability to carry sail in strong winds, and no doubt her extra-heavy keel is largely responsible for this. The ballast ratio is an extraordinary 54 percent, which means the iron keel alone weighs more than all the rest of the boat. Little wonder that Folkboats were, and still are, so popular in the blustery San Francisco Bay area.
Her performance as a seaboat is legendary, of course. It wasn't just a coincidence that two of the six boats in the first Singlehanded Transatlantic Race, in 1960, were Folkboats. Valentine Howells raced in the conventional Folkboat Eira, while Colonel H. G. ("Blondie") Hasler sailed a much-modified Folkboat, the famous Jester, which had a standard hull but a flush deck with a central control point and a Chinese lug rig.
The long keel gives the Folkboat good directional stability, and this, together with her zesty performance and her easy motion, makes her a sensible choice for a singlehanded voyager or a young couple—and we say a young couple only because young p eople are more likely to be forgiving about the Folkboat's biggest disadvantage, her lack of interior space.
Known weaknesses
After nearly 60 years of production and real-life testing, there are no weaknesses left in the Folkboat that are not patently obvious, such as the cramped accommodation quarters. This is a very open, honest boat.
If you're contemplating buying one for a long voyage, you'll have to look for the wear and tear applicable to boats in general. Inspect the hull for the dreaded boat pox, if she's GRP, and be careful to locate any areas of rot if she's wooden. Dance on those fiberglass decks and tap away with your screwdriver handle.
As always, even if you think you know it all, it's a wise move to get a second opinion. Let a qualified surveyor check her out. It's your life that's at stake.
Owner's opinions
This is another boat people fall in love with so passionately that it's difficult to get an owner to say a word against a Folkboat. Her classic beauty alone is enough to still all criticism.
Yet the physical exploits of her devotees give us valuable insights into her abilities when the sole arbiter is the sea itself. Blondie Hasler's wooden Jester is both a good and a bad example of this. Good, because she crossed the Atlantic 14 times. Ba d, because she was eventually lost at sea without trace. But she was very old and she had suffered more punishment than a dozen normal boats.
From the waterline down, Jester was a normal Folkboat, but the rest of her had been greatly modified by her owner, who was much given to invention and experimentation. She was a very early model, and in fact sailed from 1952 to 1959 with Hasler's "lapw ing" rig before he threw that out and installed a junk rig for the 1960 Observer Singlehanded Transatlantic Race.
Hasler came in second in that race, a remarkable achievement. He was only eight days behind Francis Chichester's Gipsy Moth III a much bigger and faster 39-foot sloop that crossed the finish line 40 days after the start. Jester was driven hard, and was reduced in one gale to what Hasler described as "four reefs down."
The other Folkboat in that race, Eira, came in fourth out of six in 63 days. Eira was knocked on her beam ends, and Valentine Howells put into Bermuda to replace a chronometer he had lost and to repair some damage.
In 1963, Adrian Hayter circumnavigated the world alone, sailing halfway—from England to New Zealand—in Sheila II, a 32-footer. But he completed the New Zealand-to-England leg in a Folkboat called Valkyr. Mike Bale also sailed from England to New Zealand in a Folkboat called Jellicle, and had a crew for part of the way. In 1975, a 55-year-old Australian grandmother named Ann Gash sailed around the world singlehanded in a Folkboat called Ilimo. She chose the east-to-west route via the Panama Ca nal, but had the boat shipped for part of the way, from Ghana to England.
More recently, a British Folkboat called Storm Petrel was completing an unusual circumnavigation in 1998 with solo sailor Tony Curphey aboard. It was unusual because Tony's wife, Suzanne, was also making a singlehanded circumnavigation aboard her own b oat, a 30-foot Seadog ketch called Glory. They had originally set out separately, not knowing each other, but they met in New Zealand and got married in the Solomon Islands.
Tony's Folkboat often beat Suzanne's Seadog into port on subsequent legs of their tandem voyage and regularly clocked up 130 miles a day in the trade winds. Their plan, once they had completed their solo circumnavigations, was to sell their boats, buy a bigger one, and carry on cruising—but together this time.
There are undoubtedly many other Folkboats that have sailed around the world and around Cape Horn, singlehanded and crewed, whose names have not been recorded in the annals of small boat sailing. There was a time, 50 years ago, when such voyages were r are, and records were kept of individual exploits. Now that they are more commonplace, nobody seems to be keeping the tally, which is a great pity. Perhaps the Internet will one day find a place for the Roll of Honor of small boat circumnavigations; if it does, the Folkboat will surely feature prominently.
Conclusion
According to Marek Janiec, a member of the Swedish International Folkboat (IF) Association's technical committee, there are about 2,000 IFs in Sweden, and the market price there for a boat in excellent con dition is about 60,000 Swedish kroner, or $7,400 U.S. There are about 4,000 IF Boats scattered throughout the globe, which makes it the biggest deep-keel racing class in the world.
"In Denmark, the price is 20 percent to 30 percent higher, and down in Europe, still 20 percent more."
So—would you score a financial coup by going to Sweden, buying a cheap Folkboat, and sailing her home? Probably not, although it's a very attractive plan, in any case. Secondhand International Folkboats sell on the West Coast of the United States for between $10,000 and $14,000, so the savings are not substantial in actual dollar terms if you factor in travel and accommodation charges. A brand-new fiberglass Nordic Folkboat costs about $40,000 in Denmark.
Wherever you buy one, a Folkboat represents good value for a boat capable of carrying one or two people around the world, albeit in cramped surroundings. Besides that, if you have any finer feelings at all, you'll have to agree that she's one of the mo st beautiful boats ever made to go to sea. Just looking at her riding to anchor in her own reflection in a tropical lagoon will make your heart leap with delight.
Text from The Nordic Folkboat: Little Beauty with a Big Heart by John Vigor.
Also, a here is a link to Sea Room a film featuring the Folkboat about the 1976 St. Francis Yacht Club's Woodie Regatta in the San Francisco bay.
This little Folkboat was built between 1964 and 1965, probably in one of the original Scandinavian Folkboat shipyards. She is in very good condition and was sailing earlier this summer, but could definitely use some love and attention. Her exterior varnish is a bit shabby and the electronics haven't been used in a while. She is possibly the only Folkboat on the Great Lakes. Equipped with riding lights, fog horn, oil lamp, lit binnacle, and four berths, she should make a fantastic cruising boat, or even enter some races with an appropriate handicap... I am sure there will be many more stories to come from adventures on this little beauty.
Objects
Meridians are a net
Which catches nothing; that sea-scampering bird
The gull, though shores lapse every side from sight, can yet
Sense him to land, but Hanno had not heard
Hesperidean song,
Had he not gone by watchful periploi:
Chalk rocks, and isles like beasts, and mountain stains along
The water-hem, calmed him at last near-by
The clear high hidden chant
Blown from the spellbound coast, where under drifts
Of sunlight, under plated leaves, they guard the plant
By praising it. Among the wedding gifts
Of Herë, were a set
Of golden McIntoshes, from the Greek
Imagination. Guard and gild what’s common, and forget
Uses and prices and names; have objects speak.
There’s classic and there’s quaint,
And then there is that devout intransitive eye
Of Pieter de Hooch: see feinting from his plot of paint
The trench of light on boards, the much-mended dry
Courtyard wall of brick
And sun submerged in beer, and streaming in glasses,
The weave of a sleeve, the careful and undulant tile. A quick
Change of the eye and all this calmly passes
Into a day, into magic.
Is there any end to true textures, to true
Integuments; do they ever desist from tacit, tragic
Fading away? Oh maculate, cracked, askew,
Gay-pocked and potsherd world
I voyage, where in every tangible tree
I see afloat among the leaves, all calm and curled,
The Cheshire smile which sets me fearfully free.
-Wilbur
Which catches nothing; that sea-scampering bird
The gull, though shores lapse every side from sight, can yet
Sense him to land, but Hanno had not heard
Hesperidean song,
Had he not gone by watchful periploi:
Chalk rocks, and isles like beasts, and mountain stains along
The water-hem, calmed him at last near-by
The clear high hidden chant
Blown from the spellbound coast, where under drifts
Of sunlight, under plated leaves, they guard the plant
By praising it. Among the wedding gifts
Of Herë, were a set
Of golden McIntoshes, from the Greek
Imagination. Guard and gild what’s common, and forget
Uses and prices and names; have objects speak.
There’s classic and there’s quaint,
And then there is that devout intransitive eye
Of Pieter de Hooch: see feinting from his plot of paint
The trench of light on boards, the much-mended dry
Courtyard wall of brick
And sun submerged in beer, and streaming in glasses,
The weave of a sleeve, the careful and undulant tile. A quick
Change of the eye and all this calmly passes
Into a day, into magic.
Is there any end to true textures, to true
Integuments; do they ever desist from tacit, tragic
Fading away? Oh maculate, cracked, askew,
Gay-pocked and potsherd world
I voyage, where in every tangible tree
I see afloat among the leaves, all calm and curled,
The Cheshire smile which sets me fearfully free.
-Wilbur
Genoa: San Lorenzo and the Harbour
The Palazzo Ducale
San Lorenzo
The West Facade
Towards the harbour on Via di San Lorenzo
Medieval shops along the Moro
Palazzo San Giorgio, the commercial center of medieval Genoa
Basilica della Santissima Annunziata del Vastato beyond the old wallls of the city
Looking up towards Piazza de Banchi and the Loggia dei Mercanti
San Lorenzo with Chiesa del Gesu up the street
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