Carl Miller on the terrifying, hidden reality of Ridiculously Complicated Algorithms
https://www.the-tls.co.uk/articles/public/ridiculously-complicated-algorithms/
God Is In The Machine
https://www.the-tls.co.uk/articles/public/ridiculously-complicated-algorithms/
Starving For Time
From L.M. Sacasas' The Frailest Thing:
“American Society is starving,” not for food, of course, “but for the ultimate scarcity of the postmodern world, time.” “Starving for time,” they add, “does not result in death, bur rather, as ancient Athenian philosophers observed, in never beginning to live.”
https://thefrailestthing.com/2018/12/09/digital-media-and-our-experience-of-time/
Speedometer Design
Some wonderful speedometers, gauges, and watches from the last 100 years:
Two designs for a new Janus speedometer from our own senior lead speedometer designer, Grant Longenbaugh:
The rectangle at the bottom is for a digital odometer, trip meter, volt meter, and temperature guage.
Ancient Greek Technology and the Antikythera Mechanism
I just stumbled across this New Yorker article from 2007. The discovery and X-ray scanning of the Antikythera Mechanism highlights the French sociologist Jacques Ellul's argument that our modern relationship with technology is fundamentally different from how man has encountered technology in the past--that the ancient Greeks possessed a much more developed technological capacity then we are aware and simultaneously understood a critical danger in its application and exerted self-mastery to limit its control over their lives and society. If this is the case, then perhaps it is no accident that we have almost no knowledge of the Greek's seemingly sophisticated level of technological development. Likewise, it is a call for us to consider how we harness our technology, or to what extent our technology has totally enslaved us.
From the New Yorker article:
"The Greeks are thought to have possessed crude wooden gears, which were used to lift heavy building materials, haul up water, and hoist anchors, but historians do not generally credit them with possessing scientifically precise gears—gears cut from metal and arranged into complex “gear trains” capable of carrying motion from one driveshaft to another. Paul Keyser, a software developer at I.B.M. and the author of “Greek Science of the Hellenistic Era,” told me recently, “Those scholars who study the history of science tend to focus on science beginning with Copernicus and Galileo and Harvey, and often go so far as to assert that no such thing existed before.” It’s almost as if we wished to reserve advanced technological accomplishment exclusively for ourselves. Our civilization, while too late to make the fundamental discoveries that the Greeks made in the sciences—Euclidean geometry, trigonometry, and the law of the lever, to name a few—has excelled at using those discoveries to make machines. These are the product and proof of our unique genius, and we’re reluctant to share our glory with previous civilizations...
...But, if the Greeks did have greater technological sophistication than we think they did, why didn’t they apply it to making more useful things—time- and work-saving machines, for example—instead of elaborate singing automatons? Or is what we consider important about technology—which is, above all, that it is useful—different from what the Greeks considered worthwhile: amusement, enlightenment, delight for its own sake? According to one theory, the Greeks, because they owned slaves, had little incentive to invent labor-saving devices—indeed, they may have found the idea distasteful. Archimedes’ claws notwithstanding, there was, as Keyser notes, cultural resistance to making high-tech war machines, because “both the Greeks and the Romans valued individual bravery in war.” In any case, in the absence of any obvious practical application for Greek technology, it is easy to believe that it never existed at all.
From Jacques Ellul's book, The Technological Society:
"The Greeks, however, were the first to have a coherent scientific activity and to liberate scientific thought. But then a phenomenon occurred which still astonishes historians: the almost total separation of science and technique. Doubtless, this separation was less absolute than the example of Archimedes has led historians to believe. But it is certain that material needs were treated with contempt, that technical research was considered unworthy of the intellect, and that the goal of science was not application but contemplation. Plato shunned any compromise with application, even in order to forward scientific research. For him, only the most abstract possible exercise of reason was important. Archimedes went even further. True, he rationalized practice and even made 'applications' to a certain degree; but his machine was to be destroyed after it had demonstrated the exactness of his numerical reckonings.
"In their golden age of science, the Greeks could have deduced the technical consequences of their scientific activity. But they did not wish too. Walter asks: "Did the Greeks, obsessed with harmony, check themselves at the very point at which inquiry ran the risk of going to excess and threatened to introduce a monstrosity into their civilization?
"This was the result if a variety of factors, most of which were of a philosophic nature. For on thing, theirs was a conception of life which scorned material needs and the improvement of practical life, discredited manual labor (because of the practice of slavery), held contemplation to be the goal of intellectual activity because it represented an aspect of brute force and implied a want of moderation. Man, however humble his technical equipment, has from the very beginning played the role of sorcerer's apprentice in relation to the machine. This feeling on the part of the Greeks was not a reflection of a primitive man's fear in the face of something he does not understand (the explanation given today when certain persons take fright at our techniques). Rather, it was the result, perfectly mastered and perfectly measured, of a certain conception of life. It represented an apex of civilization and intelligence.
"Here we find the supreme Greek virtue, ἐγκράτεια (self control). The rejection of technique was a deliberate, positive activity involving self-mastery, recognition of destiny, and the application of a given conception of life. Only the most modest techniques were permitted--those which would respond directly to material needs in such a way that these needs did not get the upper hand."
A reconstruction of the Antikythera mechanism by Michael Wright:
Maps From Books: A Review of a New Book
"Barring some unforeseen miracle of publishing occurring in the next few weeks, The Writer’s Map will be my book of the year for 2018. It gathers intelligently charming meditations from writers and festoons them with map after map after map after map of imaginary, and sometimes non-imaginary, lands. (Only after several days of staring at the beautifully reproduced images did I force myself to read the words, but I am glad I finally did.) I am so enamored of this book that I bitterly resent what takes me away from it, whether that be the need to eat, or sleep, or write this review. But when duty calls, I sometimes answer."
Read the full review here:
https://www.weeklystandard.com/alan-jacobs/the-writers-map-review-cartographantasies
For my collection of maps from books click here.
Watercolor Wash Renderings For a New Antiochian Orthodox Temple in Indiana
It has been a wonderful to get back to watercolor rendering. This is a design for a new temple for my home parish of Saint Mary's here in Goshen. I look forward to the possibility of seeing this temple built in more that paper, pencil, and watercolor pigments.
Directive
By Robert Frost
Back out of all this now too much for us,
Back in a time made simple by the loss
Of detail, burned, dissolved, and broken off
Like graveyard marble sculpture in the weather,
There is a house that is no more a house
Upon a farm that is no more a farm
And in a town that is no more a town.
The road there, if you'll let a guide direct you
Who only has at heart your getting lost,
May seem as if it should have been a quarry -
Great monolithic knees the former town
Long since gave up pretense of keeping covered.
And there's a story in a book about it:
Besides the wear of iron wagon wheels
The ledges show lines ruled southeast-northwest,
The chisel work of an enormous Glacier
That braced his feet against the Arctic Pole.
You must not mind a certain coolness from him
Still said to haunt this side of Panther Mountain.
Nor need you mind the serial ordeal
Of being watched from forty cellar holes
As if by eye pairs out of forty firkins.
As for the woods' excitement over you
That sends light rustle rushes to their leaves,
Charge that to upstart inexperience.
Where were they all not twenty years ago?
They think too much of having shaded out
A few old pecker-fretted apple trees.
Make yourself up a cheering song of how
Someone's road home from work this once was,
Who may be just ahead of you on foot
Or creaking with a buggy load of grain.
The height of the adventure is the height
Of country where two village cultures faded
Into each other. Both of them are lost.
And if you're lost enough to find yourself
By now, pull in your ladder road behind you
And put a sign up CLOSED to all but me.
Then make yourself at home. The only field
Now left's no bigger than a harness gall.
First there's the children's house of make-believe,
Some shattered dishes underneath a pine,
The playthings in the playhouse of the children.
Weep for what little things could make them glad.
Then for the house that is no more a house,
But only a belilaced cellar hole,
Now slowly closing like a dent in dough.
This was no playhouse but a house in earnest.
Your destination and your destiny's
A brook that was the water of the house,
Cold as a spring as yet so near its source,
Too lofty and original to rage.
(We know the valley streams that when aroused
Will leave their tatters hung on barb and thorn.)
I have kept hidden in the instep arch
Of an old cedar at the waterside
A broken drinking goblet like the Grail
Under a spell so the wrong ones can't find it,
So can't get saved, as Saint Mark says they mustn't.
(I stole the goblet from the children's playhouse.)
Here are your waters and your watering place.
Drink and be whole again beyond confusion.
Back out of all this now too much for us,
Back in a time made simple by the loss
Of detail, burned, dissolved, and broken off
Like graveyard marble sculpture in the weather,
There is a house that is no more a house
Upon a farm that is no more a farm
And in a town that is no more a town.
The road there, if you'll let a guide direct you
Who only has at heart your getting lost,
May seem as if it should have been a quarry -
Great monolithic knees the former town
Long since gave up pretense of keeping covered.
And there's a story in a book about it:
Besides the wear of iron wagon wheels
The ledges show lines ruled southeast-northwest,
The chisel work of an enormous Glacier
That braced his feet against the Arctic Pole.
You must not mind a certain coolness from him
Still said to haunt this side of Panther Mountain.
Nor need you mind the serial ordeal
Of being watched from forty cellar holes
As if by eye pairs out of forty firkins.
As for the woods' excitement over you
That sends light rustle rushes to their leaves,
Charge that to upstart inexperience.
Where were they all not twenty years ago?
They think too much of having shaded out
A few old pecker-fretted apple trees.
Make yourself up a cheering song of how
Someone's road home from work this once was,
Who may be just ahead of you on foot
Or creaking with a buggy load of grain.
The height of the adventure is the height
Of country where two village cultures faded
Into each other. Both of them are lost.
And if you're lost enough to find yourself
By now, pull in your ladder road behind you
And put a sign up CLOSED to all but me.
Then make yourself at home. The only field
Now left's no bigger than a harness gall.
First there's the children's house of make-believe,
Some shattered dishes underneath a pine,
The playthings in the playhouse of the children.
Weep for what little things could make them glad.
Then for the house that is no more a house,
But only a belilaced cellar hole,
Now slowly closing like a dent in dough.
This was no playhouse but a house in earnest.
Your destination and your destiny's
A brook that was the water of the house,
Cold as a spring as yet so near its source,
Too lofty and original to rage.
(We know the valley streams that when aroused
Will leave their tatters hung on barb and thorn.)
I have kept hidden in the instep arch
Of an old cedar at the waterside
A broken drinking goblet like the Grail
Under a spell so the wrong ones can't find it,
So can't get saved, as Saint Mark says they mustn't.
(I stole the goblet from the children's playhouse.)
Here are your waters and your watering place.
Drink and be whole again beyond confusion.
Bottom Paint on the Mariner
Another great day of work on the Mariner with a special visit from Mariner Class Association member John Davies, #3337. John drove up from Traverse City with his wife to take a look at my boat and offer his extensive knowledge of the Mariner and personal recommendations on the condition of the boat and the repairs I am undertaking. I am very grateful for his generosity.
John told me the repairs thus far look good and made a great list of the next steps. His first recommendation was that I get the trailer rollers in proper contact with the hull so that I can prevent the same issues coming back. Next, scraping or grinding out the interior of the hull/deck joint and adding 3M 5200 to prevent water getting in at that point.
He confirmed my observation that there does not appear to be any lead ballast in the typical area along the CB trunk in my boat. Our thought is that this was a Spindrift-only variation. Perhaps because of this the CB trunk does look like it needs reinforcing as I noticed with the cracks around the opening, John recommended reinforcing this area all around the trunk with several layers of glass.
The biggest structural repair that needs to be attended to eventually is that the rear crossmember of the hull liner is delaminating from the hull. In fact most of the hull liner around the cabin sole, quarter berths and at the support member are delaminating from the outer hull. Perhaps this was a result of the Spindrift manufacturing process? I will post pictures when I have a chance to take some more in the cabin and under the cockpit. John recommended fixing the tabing and adding new glass over the the joints when I have the time.
After John left, I sanded down yesterday's glassing and put on the first coat of bottom paint. The bottom paint I am using is West Marine's Bottom Shield which should work well for the limited time my boat spends in the water. My short term plan is to add a few more coats of bottom paint, finish removing the old beat up stickers from the hull, re-bed the deck hardware, and thoroughly clean the topsides, and then go sailing! Other projects that I hope to get to this summer are sealing the hull/deck joint, reinforcing the CB trunk, and fixing the joint between the hull liner and outer hull.
John told me the repairs thus far look good and made a great list of the next steps. His first recommendation was that I get the trailer rollers in proper contact with the hull so that I can prevent the same issues coming back. Next, scraping or grinding out the interior of the hull/deck joint and adding 3M 5200 to prevent water getting in at that point.
He confirmed my observation that there does not appear to be any lead ballast in the typical area along the CB trunk in my boat. Our thought is that this was a Spindrift-only variation. Perhaps because of this the CB trunk does look like it needs reinforcing as I noticed with the cracks around the opening, John recommended reinforcing this area all around the trunk with several layers of glass.
The biggest structural repair that needs to be attended to eventually is that the rear crossmember of the hull liner is delaminating from the hull. In fact most of the hull liner around the cabin sole, quarter berths and at the support member are delaminating from the outer hull. Perhaps this was a result of the Spindrift manufacturing process? I will post pictures when I have a chance to take some more in the cabin and under the cockpit. John recommended fixing the tabing and adding new glass over the the joints when I have the time.
After John left, I sanded down yesterday's glassing and put on the first coat of bottom paint. The bottom paint I am using is West Marine's Bottom Shield which should work well for the limited time my boat spends in the water. My short term plan is to add a few more coats of bottom paint, finish removing the old beat up stickers from the hull, re-bed the deck hardware, and thoroughly clean the topsides, and then go sailing! Other projects that I hope to get to this summer are sealing the hull/deck joint, reinforcing the CB trunk, and fixing the joint between the hull liner and outer hull.
Fiberglassing the Mariner
I spent the day grinding out a bit more in the target areas and then laying glass. The cracked area on the starboard side where a bunk had pressed in turned out to be much larger than I realized. The area had multiple weak points, damaged areas, and was completely waterlogged. I ground out all the bad glass tapering the edges back and dried it out as best as I could before glassing over the hole. I ended up with 7 layers of thick glass matting which I estimated to be about the thickness of the original hull.
I was not able to add glass on the inside at this time as I have not cut into the berths yet. It also looked like the cracked area was directly beneath the corner of one of the berths because I was able to see the vertical end of a piece of plywood right behind it. The plywood, though waterlogged, appeared to be in good condition. My hope is that this will eventually dry out? I have drilled through the hull and will be adding a bronze garboard drain so even if I do get more water in the winter, at least it will not collect. Perhaps I will be able to add more glass from the inside when I start exploring the insides of the quarter berths.
As soon as I took a grinder to the damaged area at the front of the CB trunk (where I thought it had been hit) the fiberglass turned out to be extremely weak and I noticed signs of a previous repair with a hard white substance. I ground out everything and added glass matting and then biaxial on top. I did not get to building it up to the original shape and perhaps will come back to that. I then glass along the very corner of the CB trunk all the way round. I am not sure this really added all that much strength as I only added one layer of fabric, but I figure it's better than nothing. My hope is that with epoxy paint, the boat will at the least be considerably more watertight than before.
My next task will be removing the deck fittings and rebedding everything in an attempt to keep out rainwater. I'd love to paint the deck as well, but am not sure about what to do with the hairline cracking. Maybe I will leave that for another time.
Last but not least, I believe that the majority of the water that got into the boat over the winter got in at the low points of the hull/deck joint as the boat was fairly well covered over the winter and still took on a couple of inches of water. My thinking is that those areas would be where any ingress of water would collect. I wonder if there is a recommended way of sealing these that doesn't involve removing the riveted section. I am considering caulking the inside with something like 3M 5200.
I am really looking forward to sanding, painting, and getting this thing back in the water.
I was not able to add glass on the inside at this time as I have not cut into the berths yet. It also looked like the cracked area was directly beneath the corner of one of the berths because I was able to see the vertical end of a piece of plywood right behind it. The plywood, though waterlogged, appeared to be in good condition. My hope is that this will eventually dry out? I have drilled through the hull and will be adding a bronze garboard drain so even if I do get more water in the winter, at least it will not collect. Perhaps I will be able to add more glass from the inside when I start exploring the insides of the quarter berths.
As soon as I took a grinder to the damaged area at the front of the CB trunk (where I thought it had been hit) the fiberglass turned out to be extremely weak and I noticed signs of a previous repair with a hard white substance. I ground out everything and added glass matting and then biaxial on top. I did not get to building it up to the original shape and perhaps will come back to that. I then glass along the very corner of the CB trunk all the way round. I am not sure this really added all that much strength as I only added one layer of fabric, but I figure it's better than nothing. My hope is that with epoxy paint, the boat will at the least be considerably more watertight than before.
My next task will be removing the deck fittings and rebedding everything in an attempt to keep out rainwater. I'd love to paint the deck as well, but am not sure about what to do with the hairline cracking. Maybe I will leave that for another time.
Last but not least, I believe that the majority of the water that got into the boat over the winter got in at the low points of the hull/deck joint as the boat was fairly well covered over the winter and still took on a couple of inches of water. My thinking is that those areas would be where any ingress of water would collect. I wonder if there is a recommended way of sealing these that doesn't involve removing the riveted section. I am considering caulking the inside with something like 3M 5200.
I am really looking forward to sanding, painting, and getting this thing back in the water.
Centerboard Trunk Cracks
I spent 4 hours sanding to the bottom yesterday and got the majority of the existing paint off and established an even roughed up surface. I focused a bit more on the damaged areas and tried to get them down to bare glass.
One thing I noticed during my prolonged time on my back under the boat was that there were quite a few hairline stress cracks all the way around the CB trunk right at the corner of the opening through the hull. I do remember the CB trunk moving side to side a good bit when I had her out sailing last year. At the time I thought it could be normal, but now I am wondering if this could be the cause of the cracks.
I also noticed a good bit of cracking and gelcoat chipping around the front of the CB trunk slot. This looks like it was caused by the CB being dropped and hitting the front of the trunk. My hope is to grind these areas down a bit more and lay fresh glass over them, sand and fair, and then paint with an epoxy barrier coat.
One thing I noticed during my prolonged time on my back under the boat was that there were quite a few hairline stress cracks all the way around the CB trunk right at the corner of the opening through the hull. I do remember the CB trunk moving side to side a good bit when I had her out sailing last year. At the time I thought it could be normal, but now I am wondering if this could be the cause of the cracks.
I also noticed a good bit of cracking and gelcoat chipping around the front of the CB trunk slot. This looks like it was caused by the CB being dropped and hitting the front of the trunk. My hope is to grind these areas down a bit more and lay fresh glass over them, sand and fair, and then paint with an epoxy barrier coat.
Mariner 19 "Grebe" 2018 Season
Hull damage
First off, I’m really more interested in having fun with the boat and actually sailing it than making this thing look perfect. The hull deformations don’t really bother me as much as the leak… I’d like to be able to leave it on our mooring for a week or two without worrying that it’s going to take on enough water to sink. (I also have a couple of bilge pumps and solar panels, so I can rig those up as well, but I would prefer to figure out the leaks on their own. When I first put the boat in the water it would take on about 2-4 inches of water per hour. That was when I found the crack in the hull where one of the bunks had actually pressed in enough to create a crack in the hull. I did a quick fix on that last summer and got the boat to the point where it would only take on a couple of inches of water over night. The location of the two deformations and the crack is right under the quarter berths (where I can't see it). My tentative plan is to sand the hull, re-epoxy/fiberglass the cracked area, and then paint the hull. A more involved idea I had was to cut large access holes in the quarter berth, build some reinforcing structure in there to repair the hull shape, repair the leak from the inside with fiberglass, fill with fresh floatation foam, and re-fiberglass the quarter berths. Sounds like a lot of work that might be a later project!
Hull and deck paint
As far as hull paint, I have been reading everything I can on the Mariner forums and on Nate B's Orion website. I do think that I am going to repaint the hull and deck this summer. It sounds there are a lot of options for paints. I am thinking I will try the roll and tip method of application. For the deck, I have a lot of the usual spider cracks. I am not sure if a thorough sanding and painting will take care of that for a couple of years, or should I consider a more involved approach with grinding out the cracks and filling them.
Across America on a Janus Motorcycle
This post was originally published on the George A. Wyman Memorial Project blog:
A virtual interview with Richard Worsham, co-founder of Janus Motorcycles,
conducted by Tim Masterson, project manager for the G.A. Wyman Memorial Project.
conducted by Tim Masterson, project manager for the G.A. Wyman Memorial Project.
 |
| Tim Masterson and Richard Worsham pose in front of the George Wyman Waypoint at Janus Motorcycles in Goshen, Indiana |
Tim: We are pleased to have Janus Motorcycles join the 2018 - Wyman Memorial Challenge, 'Rendezvous'.
Richard Worsham, co-founder of company will be riding the Janus Halcyon 250 from San Francisco to New York City. The Halcyon, a single cylinder, 229cc, 14 horsepower, 5-speed motorcycle is built at the Janus facilities in Goshen, Indiana. Janus Motorcycles is the hosting authority for the Wyman waypoint in Goshen.
Richard has been busy planning his ride and running the company! Please welcome to this brave rider to the long-distance motorcycling community.
Tim: Richard, what were you thinking when you signed up on Ride Master for the 2018 'Rendezvous'?
Richard: I am an avid daily rider, but the mileage we will be putting down each day equals my longest ever day in the saddle. There is definitely some well-found nervousness on my part with the mileage, but I believe that has more to do with my own condition than that of the bike! That said, I and the rest of the Janus team are delighted to participate in an event celebrating George Wyman, an undoubted connoisseur of small-displacement motorcycles and a pioneer of long distance riding. We are very excited to continue his story.
Tim: Being the co-founder of Janus, you are obviously passionate about riding. How did you start out in the sport?
Richard: My introduction to two-wheels started with a fascination with vintage pedal-type mopeds. I appreciated the aesthetics and design of these scaled-down motorcycles, the do-it-yourself mentality, and the humor of the small, unreliable, two strokes. Most importantly, I loved the feeling of openness and lightness of these small bikes.
Tim: How did Janus Motorcycles come to be one of just a handful of American motorcycle manufacturers?
Richard: While in school, I started visiting and working over the summer in my friend's vintage moped repair shop. After several years exploring what we could do with mopeds, we had the idea to create our own bike, the way we wanted it, from scratch. That first one-off moped turned into the idea for a production motorcycle and we founded Janus Motorcycles.
Our design brief was simple: create a lightweight, small-displacement motorcycle that didn't look like all the other plastic covered bikes on the road. We wanted something that looked both to the past and the future, with classic styling, handmade quality, and at the same time modern technology and components. Six years later, with three models under our belt and a growing customer base, we continue to find satisfaction in our lightweight, small displacement motorcycles. We have seven full-time employees and currently produce around 4 road-legal, EPA compliant motorcycles a week.
Tim: That's interesting. Do you see a connection between Wyman's journey and Janus Motorcycles?
Richard: It was 115 years ago when George rode his 200cc California motorcycle through our hometown of Goshen, Indiana, within a block of where Janus Motorcycles are currently built. Though his bike was different in design and performance from our production models, it was essentially the same thing that we create today: a small engine strapped between two wheels.
Tim: To me, the Halcyon seems to be the Janus most suited to a long distance ride. Are you doing any special modifications to get ready for the trip?
Richard Worsham, co-founder of company will be riding the Janus Halcyon 250 from San Francisco to New York City. The Halcyon, a single cylinder, 229cc, 14 horsepower, 5-speed motorcycle is built at the Janus facilities in Goshen, Indiana. Janus Motorcycles is the hosting authority for the Wyman waypoint in Goshen.
Richard has been busy planning his ride and running the company! Please welcome to this brave rider to the long-distance motorcycling community.
Tim: Richard, what were you thinking when you signed up on Ride Master for the 2018 'Rendezvous'?
Richard: I am an avid daily rider, but the mileage we will be putting down each day equals my longest ever day in the saddle. There is definitely some well-found nervousness on my part with the mileage, but I believe that has more to do with my own condition than that of the bike! That said, I and the rest of the Janus team are delighted to participate in an event celebrating George Wyman, an undoubted connoisseur of small-displacement motorcycles and a pioneer of long distance riding. We are very excited to continue his story.
Tim: Being the co-founder of Janus, you are obviously passionate about riding. How did you start out in the sport?
Richard: My introduction to two-wheels started with a fascination with vintage pedal-type mopeds. I appreciated the aesthetics and design of these scaled-down motorcycles, the do-it-yourself mentality, and the humor of the small, unreliable, two strokes. Most importantly, I loved the feeling of openness and lightness of these small bikes.
Tim: How did Janus Motorcycles come to be one of just a handful of American motorcycle manufacturers?
Richard: While in school, I started visiting and working over the summer in my friend's vintage moped repair shop. After several years exploring what we could do with mopeds, we had the idea to create our own bike, the way we wanted it, from scratch. That first one-off moped turned into the idea for a production motorcycle and we founded Janus Motorcycles.
Our design brief was simple: create a lightweight, small-displacement motorcycle that didn't look like all the other plastic covered bikes on the road. We wanted something that looked both to the past and the future, with classic styling, handmade quality, and at the same time modern technology and components. Six years later, with three models under our belt and a growing customer base, we continue to find satisfaction in our lightweight, small displacement motorcycles. We have seven full-time employees and currently produce around 4 road-legal, EPA compliant motorcycles a week.
Tim: That's interesting. Do you see a connection between Wyman's journey and Janus Motorcycles?
Richard: It was 115 years ago when George rode his 200cc California motorcycle through our hometown of Goshen, Indiana, within a block of where Janus Motorcycles are currently built. Though his bike was different in design and performance from our production models, it was essentially the same thing that we create today: a small engine strapped between two wheels.
Tim: To me, the Halcyon seems to be the Janus most suited to a long distance ride. Are you doing any special modifications to get ready for the trip?
 |
| Richard with the Halcyon 250 (JM 068) upon which he plans to ride across America |
Richard: Yes, the Halcyon is certainly the best Janus
model for long distance riding. The Janus team and I have been going over the Halcyon I will be riding and making sure it will perform as designed. This will be my first long distance ride and the first attempt at crossing the country on a Janus. We are keeping the bike as close to stock as possible in order to be able to use these miles to prove our production models. Our model line is designed for urban commuting, short excursions, and weekend trips, not necessarily long highway miles!
model for long distance riding. The Janus team and I have been going over the Halcyon I will be riding and making sure it will perform as designed. This will be my first long distance ride and the first attempt at crossing the country on a Janus. We are keeping the bike as close to stock as possible in order to be able to use these miles to prove our production models. Our model line is designed for urban commuting, short excursions, and weekend trips, not necessarily long highway miles!
In order to equip the Halcyon for this cross country trip we are making some minor changes that relate to the sustained cruising speeds that will be required on a long distance trip such as this, increased fuel range, and rider comfort. To help with the sustained highway speeds, we are re-gearing the bike for lower rpms and higher speed in 5th gear which should also help with fuel range. The fuel range of the Halcyon is a little over 120 miles which for most portions of the route will be more than enough. After learning that Wyman carried an auxiliary fuel tank from San Francisco to Omaha, we decided to fabricate a custom mount for a Rotopax fuel canister that will sit above the rear fender just like on Wyman’s California bike. We have also fitted the bike with a set of aluminum panniers on a custom rear rack that will carry my daily gear and equipment for the ride.
Tim: How about riding gear and other equipment? Will you be using a GPS?
Richard: I will be using my regular riding gear and a full face dual-sport helmet. I have purchased a separate rain suit to use over my riding gear. My helmet will be outfitted with a Sena bluetooth headset paired to my iPhone. I have mounted the iPhone in a waterproof Ram case on the handlebars and will be using it for navigation to the Wyman waypoints. The GPX file you provided for the Grand Tour loaded perfectly.
I have also signed up for a SpotWalla account so all our Janus customers, friends, and neighbors can follow along in real time as I ride across country. I followed your advice and reached out to Mario Winkelman of LDComfort. What a great character! He's setting me up with a full set of his gear including shirt, tights, helmet liner, and off the bike gear. Thanks very much for the recommendation and introduction. I am really feeling like I have the best leg up to make this ride a success. I had no idea the LD community was so well developed and the more I get into this 'Long-Distance' riding, the more I like it!
Tim: Well, I feel confident that the entire long-distance riding and motorcycle touring communities will be following your epic journey 'Across America on a Janus Motorcycle,' with great interest.
Tim: Richard, I want to thank you for joining the 2018 - Wyman Memorial Challenge, 'Rendezvous'event. We are excited Janus has selected the 'Rendezvous' to showcase the Halcyon 250.
Richard: I'm getting every excited for the trip! And, looking forward to getting to know the other riders, as we 'Rendezvous' along the way.
You are invited to follow along with all the Wyman 'Rendezvous' riders on their webpage:
'Across America on Motorcycles' - 2018 Wyman Memorial Grand Tour
May 26 - June 2
Tim: How about riding gear and other equipment? Will you be using a GPS?
Richard: I will be using my regular riding gear and a full face dual-sport helmet. I have purchased a separate rain suit to use over my riding gear. My helmet will be outfitted with a Sena bluetooth headset paired to my iPhone. I have mounted the iPhone in a waterproof Ram case on the handlebars and will be using it for navigation to the Wyman waypoints. The GPX file you provided for the Grand Tour loaded perfectly.
I have also signed up for a SpotWalla account so all our Janus customers, friends, and neighbors can follow along in real time as I ride across country. I followed your advice and reached out to Mario Winkelman of LDComfort. What a great character! He's setting me up with a full set of his gear including shirt, tights, helmet liner, and off the bike gear. Thanks very much for the recommendation and introduction. I am really feeling like I have the best leg up to make this ride a success. I had no idea the LD community was so well developed and the more I get into this 'Long-Distance' riding, the more I like it!
Tim: Well, I feel confident that the entire long-distance riding and motorcycle touring communities will be following your epic journey 'Across America on a Janus Motorcycle,' with great interest.
Tim: Richard, I want to thank you for joining the 2018 - Wyman Memorial Challenge, 'Rendezvous'event. We are excited Janus has selected the 'Rendezvous' to showcase the Halcyon 250.
Richard: I'm getting every excited for the trip! And, looking forward to getting to know the other riders, as we 'Rendezvous' along the way.
You are invited to follow along with all the Wyman 'Rendezvous' riders on their webpage:
'Across America on Motorcycles' - 2018 Wyman Memorial Grand Tour
May 26 - June 2
From the George A. Wyman Memorial Project Blog:
"With the help of the California Motor Company and Goodman publishing, Wyman was finalizing preparations for his epic motor-cycle ride across America. It is likely this two sentence news clipping was the first public notice of Wyman's attempt. It would be the beginning of publicity designed to launch The Goodman Company's new periodical, "The Motorcycle Magazine."
"Across America on a Janus Motorcycle""We are pleased to announce Janus Motorcycles will join the 2018 - Wyman Memorial Challenge, 'Rendezvous.' 115 years after Wyman's historic 1903 journey, on single cylinder, 200cc motorcycle, Janus Motorcycles is paying tribute to the Wyman legacy by duplicating this challenging ride on their top-of-the-line Halcyon 250. Janus and riders from around the country will 'Rendezvous' in the San Francisco Bay Area on Memorial Day weekend. The Grand Tour begins Monday, May 28 and runs through Saturday, June 2, 2018.
"Richard Worsham, co-founder of the company will be riding the Janus Halcyon 250 from San Francisco to New York City. The Janus Halcyon, single cylinder, 229cc, 14 horse power, 5-speed motorcycle is built in Goshen, Indiana. Janus Motorcycles is the hosting authority for the 624.3 Goshen Wyman waypoint.
"Since the California Gold Rush days, the distance between San Francisco and New York City set the standard for cross continent travel. The completion of the transcontinental railway shortened a grueling eight week wagon journey to a relatively comfortable 83 hour express train ride.
 |
| Iron Butt Magazine, Spring 2013 |
"Wyman's 50 day motorized journey from San Francisco to New York City represented the next step in the technology of personal transcontinental travel. Today, on modern motorcycles, members of the Iron Butt Association pay tribute to Wyman's legacy, making the San Francisco to New York City ride in under 50 hours."
George A. Wyman...
"World's Toughest Motorcycle Rider, circa 1903"
Janus Fork Top Plate Machining
A short video showing the highlights of the machining process for the Janus Motorcycles fork top plate.
A Very Short Guide to Places to Not Miss in Rome
This short guide was originally written 01/05/2017 for friends planning a week long trip to Rome.
Se non è vero, è ben trovato!
Se non è vero, è ben trovato!
There is so much to see and do in Rome that it is with great difficulty and some remorse that I have compiled this small and abridged version of the city. I have excluded most of the palazzi, many of the museums, all but one or two of the restaurants, and of course countless churches and ancient buildings, temples, and monuments. To really experience and begin to comprehend and grow familiar with the city, at least 2-3 months is required, and that is not nearly enough. Nevertheless, those opportunities are rare and the brief span of one or two weeks is the usual allotment for the visitor to Rome. Therefore, I have divided this brief guide into sections that are in the same vicinity and that could be completed in a sequence. That sequence may, and probably should, take more than a single day. Some points I would recommend over others if you have a limited amount of time. Each little snippet about the site should be augmented with further reading. My recommendation is H. V. Morton’s "A Traveler In Rome” and James H. S. McGregor’s “Rome From the Ground Up”, to begin with. I have tried to balance the selection to represent the entire history of the city, however, there is certainly a heavy emphasis on churches which should not be surprising—this is Rome after all. I am also partial to the Renaissance and Baroque periods.
CAMPUS MARTIUS:
Piazza Navona - This makes a great place to begin a tour of the city. It is the site of the ancient Stadium of Domitian where many christians were martyred. The current Renaissance buildings surrounding the piazza are constructed on the foundations of the stadium. It is a very theatrical space and has been the location of many processions, markets, celebrations, etc. for two millennia. Two things to make sure to see are the Fontana dei Quattro Fiume, or Fountain of the Four Rivers by Bernini. This is a masterpiece of sculpture and allegory. Legend has it that the hand of of the Nile river god is held up to shield his eyes from Borromini’s church of Sant’ Agnese in Agone in front of which the fountain stands. The church of Sant’ Agnese is built to honor Saint Agnes who was martyred in the Stadium of Domitian. The church is an incredible example of Borromini’s skill and mastery of surface and space.
Santa Maria della Pace - This is one of my favorite churches and piazza’s ever. With a marvelous theatrical facade by Pietro da Cortona (primarily a painter), this church takes an irregular piazza and perfectly regularizes it through the use of the classical orders (and a lot of invention). The interior of the church and the cloister are also worth seeing.
San Agostino - This church is an example of early Renaissance architecture designed by Giacomo di Pietrasanta and Baccio Pontelli in the late 15th century. The church is home to many great works of art including my favorite Caravaggio (The Madonna di Loreto, or Pilgrim’s Madonna) along with works by Raphael, Guercino, and both Sansovinos. Make sure to peak in the Biblioteca Angelica (one of the greatest libraries in the world) located right next door.
The Pantheon - Go see it. It’s wonderful. Lots to read about it too.
Santa Maria Sopra Minerva - This church has so much to see. It is built on the site of an ancient temple to the goddess Isis (reimagined as Minerva in the Renaissance). Highlights include marvelous frescoes by many of the most famous painters (Fillipino Lippi, Pirro Ligorio, Fra Angelico, etc.) Sculptors and architects of the interior include Giacomo della Porta, Carlo Maderno, etc. Michelangelo’s Christo della Minerva is on the left of the alter. It is also interesting to note that this is the only Gothic church in Rome to survive untouched as such (at least on the interior).
Bar Sant’ Eustachio - This is a great place to get espresso. They have a screen behind which they make their coffee because of the secret techniques. It’s very good. Also a great place to celebrate with a bottle of prosecco, although ask for the price first—I learned this the hard way!
Sant’ Ignatio - This is one of the greatest baroque churches in Rome, with an incredible rationalized piazza in front that takes more queues from stage design than urbanism. It is the home of the Jesuits and is full of extravagant decoration and wealth. It is most notable for the frescoes of Andrea Pozzo depicting the life and work of Ignatius Loyola and the Jesuits. The best part is the fake dome that Pozzo painted in perspective on the ceiling. The attached priory was home to the baroque polymath Athenasius Kircher who you have to read about to believe. He apparently used to make light shows and play aeolian harps out one of the windows of his laboratory to the dismay of passers by and his own order.
San Andrea della Vale - The setting for the opening act of Puccini's Tosca. Designed by Giacomo della Porta and Carlo Maderno, among others.
Campo de’ Fiori - Magnificent piazza with a striking 19th century statue of Giordano Bruno who was burned on the spot for heresy. I think lots of people were actually burned here. There is a daily market here which is wonderful, but a bit pricey. Don’t go to the bars around here at night as they are all full of obnoxious American students.
Palazzo Farnese - By far one of the most important Renaissance palaces in Rome, it belonged to the Farnese family. It was designed in turn by many of the greatest architects and sculptures of a very talented era: Antonio da Sangallo the Younger, Michelangelo, Vignola, and Giacomo della Porta. The interior is lavish. The piazza in front of the palace is decorated with two massive granite basins from the Baths of Caracalla.
Ponte Sisto - A beautiful 15th century bridge designed by Baccio Pontelli for Pope Sixtus IV. If you see lots of padlocks attached to the bridge it is because of a silly recent trend made popular in the 2000’s by a vapid young adult romance novel, “I Want You” by Federico Moccia. The fad is to attach "love locks" (padlocks symbolizing a couple’s love), which are in turn periodically cut off and thrown away by the city. The original location for this in the story is the Ponte Milvi, another ancient bridge located a mile upstream.
TRASTEVERE & JANICULUM HILL:
Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere - A short walk over the Ponte Sisto will bring you to possibly my favorite place in all of Rome. I think it is a locus of the world as you will often randomly run into people you know here sitting on the steps of the fountain or in one of the surrounding cafes. This is a great neighborhood to return to in the evening for food and drinks. If you do, a great place to eat is “La Cisterna”, a very 1940ish restaurant owned by a wealthy winemaking family. Ask to see the well that is supposed to have provided Walt Disney with the model for the well in Snow White. If you ever have dinner here with a cardinal, the waiter might just give you a bottle or two of prosecco on the way out...
Santa Maria in Trastevere - One of the oldest Christian churches in Rome and according to legend, the first dedicated to Mary. Like many of the other early churches, it is built on the site of a Christian house-church dating to the 2nd or 3rd centuries. Notice the mismatched columns from the nearby Temple of Isis and the Baths of Caracalla. These rescued columns and capitals are called “spoglia”. According to legend, a fount of oil sprang up on the site 30 years before the birth of Christ. The mosaic on the front of the church depicts Mary suckling Christ with ten virgins with lamps of oil.
Bar San Calisto - My favorite bar in Rome. Looks like nothing during the day, but gets rowdy and fills the whole piazza at night. Also 2 Euro big Peroni’s, although I enjoy sipping sambuca here. Very popular with locals. I am convinced that the narrator of Wilbur’s poem “Lying” is sitting here. I recommend it!
San Pietro in Montorio - Located on the Janiculum Hill (not one of the proverbial Seven Hills of Rome) with one of the best views of the city. This is a Renaissance church built on the site of 9th century church dedicated to Saint Peter. Due to a misinterpretation, this was thought to be the site of Peter’s crucifixion. Currently, the site of his crucifixion is believed to be near the Vatican on the site of a Roman circus. One of the chapels has a fresco by Peruzzi and the school of Pinturicchio. In the courtyard is the marvelous and iconic Tempietto by Bramante. This is a masterpiece of classical architecture. There is plenty of literature to read about it.
Fontana dell’ Acqua Paola - This was originally the termination of the Acquaduct of Trajan and served many mills located on the Janiculum. It has been decorated in the Renaissance and also offers a magnificent view of the city.
Statue of Garibaldi - If you have time this is a fun place to go around 11:45 in the morning. Right below the statue if you look out toward the city is a cannon that is wheeled out every day and fired over the city at noon. Tutto Risurgimento!
Suppli - Suppli is an iconic Roman street food. There is a little pizza/suppli place on the right side of the street-Via di San Francesco a Ripa, 137. This is the best suppli on earth. Stop on your way to Santa Cecilia and San Francesco.
Santa Cecelia in Trastevere - This is an 8th century church heavily redecorated in the 18th century. It is built on the site of a 3rd century church that is built on the remains of a Roman house said to be that of Saint Cecelia. The most remarkable feature of this church is the 16th century sculpture of the martyred Saint Cecelia by Stefano Maderno. It is really worth seeing. There is plenty of literature about the martyrdom of Cecelia and the discovery of her incorrupt remains in the Renaissance.
San Francesco a Ripa - Interesting church located across the Viale Trastevere. For a small fee you can see the cell/stone where Saint Francis slept when he visited Rome. Make sure to see the exquisite Statue of Blessed Ludovica Albertoni by Bernini.
Tiber Island - Full of churches and a wonderful medieval hospital on the site of a temple to Asclepius, the island is shaped like a boat and even has a prow that you can view from the downstream end of the island. It is connected to either bank bike antique stone bridges.
Ponte Quattro Capi - Originally the Pons Fabricius after it was commissioned by Lucius Fabricius the curator of the roads and bridges of Rome. Connecting the Isola Tibertina with the southeast edge of the Campus Martius (now the site of the Jewish Ghetto) this bridge is the oldest original Roman bridge still in use in Italy. It has been in continuous use for 2078 years. The bridge is named after the four-faced Janus hermes added to the bridge during the Renaissance.
VELABRUM, FORUM BOARIUM, AVENTINE HILL, AND CIRCUS MAXIMUS:
Velabrum & Cloaca Maxima - In the early days of Rome, the seven hills of the city stood out more and the valleys had not yet been filled with refuse and built over. The Velabrum was a major valley running down from the Forum Romanum (the main forum) which is located between the Capitaline and Palatine hills, and at the feet of the Viminal, Quirinal, and Esquiline hills. At one time it was a marshy area at the foot of a stream, but by the time of the Etruscans, it had been channeled into an open sewer. It was gradually enclosed and covered over prior to the Republican period and further enlarged and developed over the next 700 years. It literally means “the greatest sewer” and was used to channel the runoff from streams and most of the major aqueducts, baths and fountains out into the Tiber. The arched outflow can be seen best from the side of the Ponte Palatino, a 19th century bridge. Guided tours of the Cloaca Maxima are available.
Temple of Portunus - Also known as the Temple of Furtuna Virilis, this is one of the best preserved ancient Roman Temples. The temple was built on the site of an older temple in the first century BC. Not a whole lot is know about the deity to which it was dedicated. Due to its remarkably intact state, and ionic order, it has been often used as a model and heavily influenced the classical tradition in Italy, England, and even here in the United States.
Temple of Hercules - Located in the Furom Boarium, or cattle market, this is an ancient Roman circular temple about which not a whole lot is known. It was converted to a church in the Renaissance.
Santa Maria in Cosmedin - La Bocca della Verità is in the portico. This church is also located in the Forum Boarium and is built on the site of a Roman Deaconate or food distribution center. This tradition was carried on through the early church and Renaissance at the church of San Giorgio around the corner near the Arch of Janus! The portico of the church of San Giorgio was blown up in the 1990’s by the mafia as a revenge for Pope JPII’s participation in the more active campaign against them. Santa Maria in Cosmedine is traditionally associated with Greece as it and many of its surrounding buildings are Byzantine and the interior was decorated by many Greek artists fleeing the iconoclasm. It is called “cosmedin” from Greek kosmidion because of the beauty of its interior.
Santa Sabina all’ Aventino - Located at the top of the Aventine Hill, this another of my favorite churches in Rome. This is the first “station church” in the Roman tradition of celebrating mass at certain churches throughout the city during Lent. It is the oldest surviving Roman basilica with original rectangular colonnaded plan. Unfortunately, it has been heavily reworked to return it to its supposed pristine pre-baroque state. This process is called “repristinanzione” in Italian and is in my opinion a terrible sacrilege. Thankfully, it seems to have lost popularity since the 1920’s. The beautiful wooden doors of the basilica are original to the church and date to beginning of the 5th century! They are full of intricate carving. One panel is believed to be the oldest extant representation of the crucifixion. Definitely worth the visit. Behind the church is a wonderful garden of orange trees with a view of the the city and the Tiber Island below. This was the mother church of the Dominican Order prior to its move to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. It is still a Dominican monastery and was once the home of Saint Dominic and Saint Thomas Aquinas who was abbot before he left for France! Apparently, his cell was directly above the door and he would keep strict tally of who entered and left the monastery, and when.
San Alessio - This is another early basilica from the 3rd century that has had many renovations and additions over the years. Its current baroque exterior is pretty marvelous. The statue of Sant’Alessio under his Holy Steps is what sticks out most in my memory. Be sure to see the icon of the Madonna of Intercession.
Piazza del Cavalieri di Malta - This is at the end of the street past Santa Sabina and Sant’ Alessio. It is the famous garden through the keyhole of which you can see the dome of Saint Peters perfectly framed. There is no public access to the actual garden.
Sant Anselmo - This church is located at the very end of this same street. I remember it as a good example of a new church that fits well with its surroundings. I believe it is an active monastery and is the seat of the head of the Benedictine Order.
CAPITOLINE HILL, FORUM ROMANUM, VICTOR EMMANUEL II MONUMENT, AND VIA DEI FORI EMPERIALI:
Campidoglio - There is so much going on here that I can hardly do it any justice. Definitely consult books and guides to make sure you are understanding the history and many sites, artifacts, and stories. A couple of things that I would draw attention to are the piazza itself at the top of the stairs. The piazza, complete with its wonderful geometric pavement and flanking porticoes, is the work of Michelangelo and is possibly one of the greatest works of Renaissance architecture and urbanism. It is here that he came up with the idea of a monolithic order housing a smaller order. The Capitoline Museum is fantastic and should not be missed. The original equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius stood here in the open air until the 1980’s when it was taken down for restoration and a replica put in its place. While Michelangelo disagreed with its central location in his newly design piazza, he did design the base on which it stands.
Tarpeian Rock - At the back of the Capitol, is the Tarpeian Rock where, during the Republic, convicted traitors, etc., where thrown to their deaths. It was made especially famous in America by Nathaniel Hawthorn’s story, “The Marble Fawn”.
Santa Maria in Aracoeli - Also of note would be Santa Maria in Aracoeli, a medieval church built on the site of a 5th century Byzantine abbey that is in turn said to be built on the site of the Arx, or original citadel of pre-Roman times. Legend has it that the sacred geese in the grounds of the Temple of Juno warned the inhabitants of the citadel of a night attack by the Gauls. The goddess was therefore given the title Juno Moneta (from Latin monere- to warn). This in turn gave its name to “money” which was presided over by the goddess Juno as the mother of the state. It is also said to be the site where the Tibertine Sybil prophesied the coming of Christ to Augustus. Both the sybil and Augustus figure prominently in the artwork of the church. It also houses the Santo Bambino, a small renaissance era wooden devotional image of the baby Jesus. This object has attracted fanatical attention over the last 300 years and was “crowned” by the pope in the late 19th century. In the 1990’s it was stolen and replaced with a copy. Definitely an entertaining and classically Roman story to research! Another infamous figure to read about is Cola di Rienzo who has a small statue near the spot where he was executed right off the stairs up to the church…
Victor Emmanual Monument - Officially known as the Altare della Patria, it is more commonly known as “The Wedding Cake”, “The Typewriter”, or “English Soup”. An entire medieval neighborhood was demolished for its construction along with a part of the Capitoline hill. This monstrously incongruous building was built of non-native white stone at the turn of the last century.
Forum Romanum - There is far too much going on here for me to describe it. Make sure to see the doors to the Roman Curia, the Umbilicus urbis Romae, the Umphalos, the Curia Julia (bronze doors are replacements after the original we transferred to the Lateran in the 17th century), and see if you can spot the ancient Roman wagon ruts in the original street paving.
Via dei Fori Imperiali - This road was blasted through the remains of the Imperial Forums by Benito Mussolini to demonstrate his authority and provide a space to parade his troops. It is highly unfortunate.
Palatine Hill - Beautiful place for a picnic. Also a great view of the forum and the back of the Campidoglio.
Colosseum - Pretty cool. Never been inside, but I have seen “Return of the Dragon”... It was used as a stone quarry for other projects during the Renaissance! Plenty to read about it.
CELIAN HILL, LATERAN, VIMINAL HILL, & ESQUILINE HILL:
San Gregorio Magna al Celio - Beautiful church run by the Benedictines. Saint Augustine of Canterbury was Abbot before he left on his mission to the Saxons. It has three oratories located in a garden by the side of the church. They are very rustic and peaceful. The Missionaries of Charity (Mother Theresa of Calcutta’s Order) have a small building to the side that they use to run a homeless shelter.
Santi Giovanni e Paolo - This large early basilica is built on top an early Christian house church (recently uncovered). The interior was added to quite heavily in the late baroque and features very extravagant lamps. The Romanesque tower is very visible from the courtyard and features ceramic roundels of many colors. While the are often thin roundels of marble or porphyry (sometimes antique columns cut in section), I have heard that those on this tower are actually Islamic ceramic plates looted from the Holy Land.
Santa Maria in Domenica - Directly in front of the church is an ancient Roman boat sculpture said to have been in the area since antiquity. The beautiful early Renaissance facade dates from the early 1500’s and is attributed to Andrea Sansovino, one of my favorite architects. This was the cardinal church of the Medici family for many years and bears much of their work. Note the square halo around Pope Paschal’s head in the apse mosaic—this signifies his saint-hood even though he was still alive at the time of its construction.
Santo Sabastiano Rotundo - This is one of two circular churches in Rome. It was built in the 5th century to house the remains of Saint Stephen whose body had recently been recovered from the Holy Land. It’s walls depict many gruesome frescoes of martyrdom.
Basilica di San Giovanni in Latarano - This is the cathedral of Rome, and as such, contains the cathedra, seat of the Roman Pontifex Maximus, or Pope. It is an extremely important church and the culmination of the Via Sacra which begins at the Vatican. The Lataran Palace was gifted to the pope by Emperor Constantine and housed the popes for close to a thousand years before they moved to the Vatican. The church itself was redone by Borromini and is magnificent. It features sculptures of all the Apostles. The exterior was designed by the mathematician and architect Alessandro Galilei, a descendant of the famous Galileo Galilei.
Santi Quattro Coronati - This is one of my absolute favorite churches in Rome. It is fully fortified from it’s medieval days outside the walls of Rome. It is one of the earliest churches in Rome and was once very important. It was burned during the Norman sack of Rome and rebuilt on a smaller scale. Over the years it gained its fortified walls and is now in a quiet part of the city off the beaten track. Make sure to pay a couple of Euros to see the beautiful little jewel-box Oratorio di San Sylvestro on the right as you enter the second courtyard. I have found this a great place to sketch.
San Clemente - This is a must-see. The existing church is a Byzantine structure (with possibly the best mosaic apse in Rome depicting the tree of life) over early Christian church, over a Roman villa with a Temple of Mithras in the basement. It also has stream that flows into the forum.
ESQUILINE HILL, VIMINAL, AND QUIRINAL HILLS:
San Pietro in Vincoli - This is another great example of an early Christian church (mid-4th century) that has accumulate the trappings of every era right down the the 18th century ceiling. There are several works by Renaissance artists, the most famous being Michelangelo’s Moses (with “horns”). I believe the horns are a result of a Vulgate mistranslation that was supposed to refer to rays of light streaming from Moses’ head after he returns with the Ten Commandments. Either way, the monument is truly a masterpiece and definitely worth seeing. The monument is the Tomb of Pope Julius II, a Pope to whom Michelangelo (and all of us) owe a great debt. He commissioned both the rebuilding of St. Peter’s Basilica, and Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Ceiling among many other building and art projects.
Domus Auria - Nero’s “golden house” was an extravagant private villa that gains its name from the extensive use of gold leaf, along with precious stones, ivory, and frescoes that covered the interior. It was built on land that Nero seized after the great fire of 64 AD and covered a larger section of land in the city. There is plenty of literature on the site and the huge effect its discovery during the Renaissance had on the artists of the time. The term “grotesque" originates from the frescoes discovered in the domus, because Renaissance artists were let down into the “grotto” on ropes to study and sketch the frescoes. Many famous signatures can be found scratched into the walls.
Baths of Trajan - There is a nice little park for picnics located on the site of the baths which are a ruin. After Nero committed suicide, the following emperors built over his golden house with a variety of projects culminating in these baths built by the Emperor Trajan. Plenty to read on these.
Santa Bibiana - If you have time, it’s worth hiking a bit further to this wonderful little Baroque church whose facade was designed by Bernini when he was 25. Although built on the site of previous earlier churches, it is remarkable manly for Bernini’s work, including his Statue of Santa Bibiana. There are also frescoes by Pietro da Cortona (architect of the facade Santa Maria della Pace) and Agostino Ciampelli.
Santa Prassede - The mosaic program of this church is extensive and dates back to its first renovation in the 9th century by Pope Paschal (again represented with his square halo). The building, like many others was constructed on the site of a previous early Christian church. There is plenty of literature on the mosaic program. Don’t miss the Column of the Flagellation, the alleged pillar on which Christ was flogged before his crucifixion.
Santa Maria Maggiore - Lots to see here. I can hardly do it justice, but will point to a couple of things not to miss. The mosaics are probably the best in Rome and I believe some of the earliest. Note the highly sophisticated “impressionistic” style of the mosaics during this late Antique period as opposed to the more crude representations during the time of Pope Paschal 400 years later. I believe that they include some of the earliest representations (5th century) of the Virgin Mary, represented as Theotokos (a term that would have been in use here in Rome at the time), following the Council of Ephasus.
Santa Pudenziana - If you have time, this is another interesting site. Although rather out of the way now, this was a major church in the early days of the church and is said to be the oldest place of Christian worship in Rome. Built sometime in the 2nd century, it was the residence of the pope until Emperor Constantine bequeathed the Lataran Palace to the pope in its stead.
Baths of Diocletian - Lots to read about these. Various parts of the bath have since been turned into churches and part of the Museum of Natural History.
Statione Termini - This is the main train station for Rome and is executed in a modernist style in concrete. In front of the station is a small portion of the Servian Wall. Richard Wilbur has a very good poem about the station called “For the New Railway Station in Rome”.
Er Buchetto - I think this means “hole in the wall”, but I’m not sure-Via del Viminale 2 F. Either way it’s the best "panino con porchetta" sandwich in Rome, and has been since 1890… Porchetta is roast pig. Very affordable and best consumed with a white wine.
Santa Maria della Vittoria - High Baroque church famous for it’s magnificent “Ecstasy of Saint Teresa” by Bernini.
San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane - This is one you shouldn't miss. It is also known as "San Carlino" because of its diminutive size, it was designed by Francesco Borromini (one of my favorite architects!) and is remarkable in this list for being original construction without an older church encased behind its facade. While this was one of Borromini’s first commissions, it was plagued with financial difficulties and may have lead to Borromini’s suicide 33 years later (the facade was not completed until after his death). It was an incredibly difficult site (the whole footprint of the church can fit within one of the piers of St. Peter’s Basilica), but Borromini was able to fit this incredible little church, complete with its remarkable dome and curving facade onto the site along with a tiny cloister with alternating upside-down and right-side-up balusters.
Sant’ Andrea al Quirinale - The next church to visit is this wonderful counterpoint to Borromini’s San Carlino. Designed by Borromini’s more successful competitor Gian Lorenzo Bernini, it is also an elliptically shaped church and was completed around the same time. It is difficult to summarize the multiple allegorical, tropological, and literal levels of design that Bernini employed in the design of the church. I would highly recommend reading more on the incredible brilliance and depth of the design. Suffice it to say, the church was commissioned to house the Jesuit novices preparing to be sent forth as missionaries around the world (and probably martyred). Thus the bloody red-streaked marble interior…
Palazzo del Quirinale - This is essentially the Italian White House, although it has also housed many popes and kings as well as presidents. Built on the Quirinal Hill, (the highest hill in Rome) it was in antique times very desirable and likely had many patrician villas built in the area. The palace is massive and includes many interior structures and gardens. There is usually some flashy Italian guard-changing, etc., which can be fun to watch. There is also a wonderful view of the city. Our apartment during one of our stays in Rome was not far from here and I walked through the piazza almost every day. The central balcony is the work of Bernini.
VILLA BORGHESE, PINCIAN GARDENS, PIAZZA DEL POPULO, ARA PACIS, MOSOLEUM OF HADRIAN, SPANISH STEPS, FASHION DISTRICT:
Villa Borghese Museum - Do not miss visiting this museum containing some of the best art in the world. It is tricky to get tickets. I believe you must buy them several days or more in advance. I would strongly advise purchasing tickets before your leave for the trip. Not much I can add about the museum other than it is wonderful.
Pincian Hill - Although not one of the Seven Hills of Rome, this area has been a garden retreat since antiquity with many ancient villas and gardens in the vicinity. These are also the gardens that were the haunts of the first English expatriates in the 18th and 19th centuries including Keats, Shelley, Byron, Lear, Eliot, Dickens, Browning, and Thackeray among many others. A great place for a picnic after the Villa Borghese.
Santa Maria del Populo - This is another church not to miss on a tour of Rome. According to legend, there stood a tree on the spot that was a home to many crows that were thought to be the evil spirit of the Emperor Nero. Pope Paschal II had the tree cut down and a church built on its site. The current structure is another wonderful example of early Renaissance architecture designed by our friend Baccio Pontelli and Andrea Bregno in the late 15th century for Pope Sixtus IV. Bernini in turn redid the facade in the 17th century. The interior is absolutely full of some of the greatest works of art in the world. The apse was designed by Donato Bramante, Pinturicchio frescoed the vault, Andrea Sansovino designed two of the tombs, Francesco da Sangallo designed another tomb in an incredible chapel decorated with more frescoes by Pinturicchio, Carlo Fontana designed yet another chapel, Raphael himself designed the Chigi Chapel that was completed by Bernini, Caravaggio completed to paintings for the Cerasi Chapel (Crucifixion of Saint Peter and Saint Paul’s Conversion). The list goes on. Don’t miss this one.
Ara Pacis - This is an interesting one. Housed within this monstrously incongruous glass box designed by the architect Richard Meier in 2006 is the 1st century BC altar dedicated to Pax, the goddess of Peace.
Spanish Steps - Go sit on them. At the foot of the steps is the Roman fashion district. To the right of the steps is the Keats/Shelley Memorial House which is fun to visit if you have the time.
Palazzo Barberini - A short hike past the Triton Fountain in the Piazza Barberini will take you from here to the Palazzo Barberini. This Baroque palace now houses the Museum of Ancient Art. Originally designed by Carlo Moderno, and completed by Bernini with Borromini playing second fiddle. It has many wonderful frescoes and the museum is worth a visit on its own merits.
OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST:
Ponte Sant’ Angelo - Take this to get to the Vatican.
Via della Concilazione - The Via della Conciliazione stretches from the Castel Sant’ Angelo and the Ponte Sant’ Angelo to the Vatican. It is a new road that blasted through an entire medieval neighborhood and was supposed to symbolize the connection between the Vatican and the newly formed Italian State. Keep in mind that Bernini’s famous piazza would have been designed to be entered from a tiny winding medieval street, not this grand boulevard.
Basilica di San Pietro in Vaticano - Plenty to read about this prior to your visit.
Vatican Museum - Same here. Make sure you research your visit and know when and where to get tickets and line up for entry.
Villa Farnesina - Beautiful Renaissance palace on the banks of the Tiber with extraordinary frescoes, etc.
Porta Portese Market - Open on Sunday morning and crazy… Watch your purse or wallet—it will either be spent by you on some of the incredible stuff they sell, or stolen by a gypsy. One of and Amy and my favorite places to go in Rome.
Catacombs of San Callisto - Probably one of the best catacombs to visit, these are located along the Appian Way which is nice to see in its own right. They date from the 2nd century with many famous Christian tombs including many popes. It is necessary to take a bus to reach these catacombs.
Bar Giulia - Located on the side of the Via Giulia (a very important papal urban intervention) this cafe is rumored to have the best cappuccino in Rome. If I’m remembering properly, I this rumor is correct.
Tivoli - If you are looking for a short trip outside the city, Tivoli can be visited by a short bus ride from the city. This was an ancient resort town located about 20 miles east of Rome at an ancient locus of trade and transportation where the River Aniene issues from the Sabine Hills. Many famous Romans and emperors had villas in or around Tivoli. Originally, the river wrapped around the raised acropolis of the town with its Roman temples and plunged over 4 sets of cataracts in its descent to the Roman campagna. This drop of the river created a deep gorge and was used to power mills and canals through the town from an early date. After numerous floods, the river was redirected away from the town and the gorge in the early 19th century. Make sure to visit Hadrian’s Villa located on the way up to the town, as well as the the marvelous Renaissance Villa d’Este and its gardens, powered by canals from the Aniene. The Villa Gregoriana was built as a part of the redirection of the river and is located a short walk from the Villa d’Este in the gorge through which the Aniene River once ran. I highly recommend a visit to this wonderful site. This was a required stop on the English “Grand Tour” and many romantic artists have depicted it, the temple of “Vesta”, and the falls of the river.
Subiaco - A slightly longer trip, this town is located further up the Aniene River and is notable for its monastery, founded by St. Benedict and is the location where he wrote his famous “Rule". The town itself was built around another of Nero's extravagant Villa’s. The current town is a wonderful example of a medieval hill town. The Ponte San Francesco located at the crossing of the river is a beautiful fortified medieval bridge. The monastery itself can be reached by foot and is built against the side of a rocky cliff. It features many works of art and magnificent views.
Cerveteri - This is a town not far from Rome and the location of an ancient Etruscan settlement dating back at least to the 9th century BC. Much of our knowledge of the Etruscan civilization in based on the preserved tombs of the extensive necropoli outside the town. These are very interesting to visit. There is a run-down place to eat local fare and drink the local new (an untransportable) white wine built into the historic caves of the city.
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